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Defining "The Hipster"

 
  

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TeN
05:18 / 09.08.08
oh and make sure to read the comments - a lot of them are far more insightful and level-headed than the article itself
 
 
ONLY NICE THINGS
07:43 / 09.08.08
“I’ve always found that word [“hipster”] is used with such disdain, like it’s always used by chubby bloggers who aren’t getting laid anymore and are bored, and they’re just so mad at these young kids for going out and getting wasted and having fun and being fashionable,” he says. “I’m dubious of these hypotheses because they always smell of an agenda.”

I don't normally support Vice magazine, but true dat.
 
 
Anna de Logardiere
09:55 / 09.08.08
I don't like the way hipsters dress, the individual items are ace but teamed with each other and the hair I'm just not into it as a look. This isn't as a surprise as standardised dress always irritates me in a way that the other features of subculture don't. I'm sure other people are putting a lot of time and effort into wearing clothes in a specific style but why do it like this? How can anyone only like hipster clothes??? How can style take precedence over the clooooottthheesss?

Sorry.
 
 
HCE
15:57 / 09.08.08
Really, Haus? Chubby bloggers?
 
 
STOATIE LIEKS CHOCOLATE MILK
17:28 / 09.08.08
Apparently so. The chubby NEVER get laid anymore, y'see. Haus, are you SURE you're with Vice on this one, and don't have any qualms anywhere down the line?
 
 
Hallo, Paper Spaceboy
17:34 / 09.08.08
Also: bloggers never get laid either, regardless of their size. Because computers preclude sex. Hell, I imagine we're all sexless things, here on Barbelith. Oh that Vice, clinging to Eighties movies cliches.
 
 
ONLY NICE THINGS
17:43 / 09.08.08
You're quite right - I was half-asleep, and I am quite glad to find that actually Vice magazine is still an utter douchehome, and I do not have to examine my eternal verities.

Having said which, the adbusters article was atrocious - "I thought to myself that if only we all carried rocks instead of cameras, we would look like real revolutionaries". Fuck off. And I don't see a problem with the idea that the sneering at "hipsters" is done by people who don't understand how what they do could be fun, and therefore that it is not fun. Substituted "whiny" for "chubby" and it works, I think.

Papers, don't overstretch. Nothing in that quote supposes that no bloggers can get laid.
 
 
dark horse
17:55 / 10.08.08
personally i think adbusters is great and that article agreed with a lot of things i've thought before... like this:


The American Apparel V-neck shirt, Pabst Blue Ribbon beer and Parliament cigarettes are symbols and icons of working or revolutionary classes that have been appropriated by hipsterdom and drained of meaning. Ten years ago, a man wearing a plain V-neck tee and drinking a Pabst would never be accused of being a trend-follower. But in 2008, such things have become shameless clichés of a class of individuals that seek to escape their own wealth and privilege by immersing themselves in the aesthetic of the working class.
 
 
pony
20:12 / 10.08.08
The American Apparel V-neck shirt, Pabst Blue Ribbon beer and Parliament cigarettes are symbols and icons of working or revolutionary classes

In what way are these a more offensive appropriation of the "working class" than the jeans and t-shirts that have been ubiquitous for the past sixty years? How is it different?

I find this alarm over the middle-class not dressing appropriately "middle-class" to be weird.
 
 
Anna de Logardiere
21:04 / 10.08.08
I think I speak for the masses when I tell you to get some historical perspective or you'll be making stupid statements for all eternity. Even Bill S Preston esq. did better than this.
 
 
Anna de Logardiere
21:07 / 10.08.08
How is it different?

I find this alarm over the middle-class not dressing appropriately "middle-class" to be weird.


V. laughable considering that the drive for more utilitarian 'working class' dress has been taking place since the advent of industrialisation.
 
 
pony
21:16 / 10.08.08
I think I speak for the masses when I tell you to get some historical perspective or you'll be making stupid statements for all eternity. Even Bill S Preston esq. did better than this.

If this is directed at me, could you please make a more pointed criticism? I really don't have any idea what you (and the masses) are trying to say.
 
 
HCE
02:13 / 11.08.08
I blog and I get laid almost constantly, but then I also have a magnificent physique.
 
 
Quantum
10:23 / 11.08.08
Palace, I think the Bill S. Preston reference implies it is wildstallion that the comment was directed at. Just sayin'.

(PS I don't blog, and I don't get laid, therefore all bloggers get laid)
 
 
All Acting Regiment
13:29 / 11.08.08
I think focussing on the question of what people are wearing, as if it's a) really really important/very very bad and b) at all new, might be seen as just as much of a failing as carrying cameras instead of rocks, were one to consider that a failing.
 
 
All Acting Regiment
13:35 / 11.08.08
Further, how on earth do you know what someone actually thinks about politics, culture, or anything other than fashion just by looking at the kind of fashions they're sporting?
 
 
All Acting Regiment
13:41 / 11.08.08
To tackle the abstract:

We’ve reached a point in our civilization where counterculture has mutated into a self-obsessed aesthetic vacuum. So while hipsterdom is the end product of all prior countercultures, it’s been stripped of its subversion and originality.

... subversion of what? Originality compared to what?
 
 
STOATIE LIEKS CHOCOLATE MILK
14:02 / 11.08.08
Further, how on earth do you know what someone actually thinks about politics, culture, or anything other than fashion just by looking at the kind of fashions they're sporting?

See, I can't even get as far as THAT problem. I'm still struggling with the "you're not wearing that because you like it" thing, and the "you bought that cheap to be ironic even though no other sod knows or cares how much it cost" thing.

I mean, if people DO exist who actively seek out and drink beers they don't like on a regular basis, I'm pretty sure they're covered by "idiots". I don't get it as part of a notional subculture.

Once I get to the "how can you tell what they think about X" problem I'm sure I'll be right there with you, but at the moment I think I have a lot further to go to even SEE that far.
 
 
dark horse
14:16 / 11.08.08
ok maybe the american apparel thing does not work (although on another note though have you seen some of their adverts? - very sexist aren't they so why isn't barbelith anti-them if this is such a feminist place as i have been told?), but c'mon surely you have to admit that the general point of the adbusters article has a point, i.e. that the so called "counter culture" is not as meaningful as it used to be... once we had john lennon... then jonny rotten and joe strummer... then morrisey... then kurt.... now we have lindsay lohan?!? surely something has gone wrong?
 
 
HCE
14:40 / 11.08.08
Are you guys really so consistently sincere and authentic that you can't believe anybody would ever behave like that? I for one have done all those things: worn ugly clothes on purpose, drunk things I didn't like (like strong black coffee, or cheap whisky/beer), etc. and my politics extended to hating how hard my mother had to work to support us.

It's not being an idiot, it's being a young person trying out different identities and seeing which ones feel right. This includes mimicking other people without knowing why they do what they do. I didn't especially enjoy the process, and found teenagers pretty repellent even when I was one myself. Hipsters are people who are still going through that, as part of the same extension of childhood that has my college classmates using their newfound freedom from their parents to go to school in pyjamas, or ... less savoury examples it is probably not profitable to discuss in detail.

I certainly don't mean to suggest that I personally can tell just by looking what a particular individual has in mind, but at least one person, me, is willing to admit to having been incredibly insincere and inauthentic. I'm not ashamed of it, but it's not a point of pride, either.
 
 
ONLY NICE THINGS
15:33 / 11.08.08
Hang on... in what sense is Lindsey Lohan part of the counterculture? She was in a Herbie movie, in the name of Heaven. I don't see this as a meaningful comparison.

(On American Apparel - I think one can have a nuanced approach that allows one not to be a big fan of American Apparel's advertising, or indeed its HR practices, without disapproving on ideological grounds of anyone who is wearing an American Apparel v-neck. One can even balance the good - reduced pollution from shipping, decent wages for workers - with the bad. We live in complex and confusing times.)
 
 
electric monk
16:30 / 11.08.08
Hang on... in what sense is Lindsey Lohan part of the counterculture?

Or Kurt Cobain, for that matter.
 
 
Eek! A Freek!
16:31 / 11.08.08
Counterculture (also "counter-culture") is a sociological term used to describe the values and norms of behavior of a cultural group, or subculture, that run counter to those of the social mainstream of the day,[1] the cultural equivalent of political opposition. from Wikipedia.

You name some great musical heavyweights, wildstalion - However, every single one of them helped define our current western culture even if they were considered "counterculture" when they started. Their values and norms became mainstream. (What did Kurt stand for, anyway?) Musically you cover from Pop to Punk to New Wave to Grunge. It can be argued that this has continued with Emo. (From what I've read, Emo has become a large movement in South America, where people who follow the trend risk daily beatings by the more macho element of that society while promoting acceptance of their values. Any bblither from South America please correct me if I'm wrong)

The Adbusters article calls Hipsterism a death of Counterculture. I think that the counterculture has gone into hiding behind masks of irony. We live in Right Wing times and the percieved counterculture movement traditionally has leftist ideals. It seems a logical step to take right/consumerist trends and spike them with irony. It's being very subtly in-your-face all the while remaining ambiguous.

You site AA as an example: The founder, Dov Charney may be sexist at worst, or pro-sex/erotism at best, but as Haus points out, he has created a fair-trade, pro-worker company which produces quality goods. The models he photographs are not plastic barbie-dolls, they are real people (He does tend to like them young and slim, granted, but he does not go for the unreal fake "beauty" ideal. Hell, he may have even been a partial inspiration for the new Dove campaigns...) He has also taken on an industry which mostly employs third world sweatshop labour and has thrived even while promoting socialist ideals.

While the numbers have shrunk, there are still the anti-corporate crusaders, the environmentalists, the human rights protesters, etc... This is the face of the new counterculture: Blank. Anonymous. Online. Surely many of them are hipsters out in the real world? While we in the west have lived in relative prosperity for the past couple of decades and it seems that we have had less and less to bitch about, there will always be a counterculture to a greater or lesser extent.
 
 
dark horse
16:54 / 11.08.08
haus, my point is that its become harder to tell what is "mainstream" and "alternative", as you say these are confusing times... i think lindsay logan is considered a hipster by many, she dj's at "cool" parties and is even dating samantha ronson, sister of mark ronson, although like many people i have questions about whether that is not just a pr stunt... lesbianism being very "cool" now also... but i just picked lindsay's name out of a hat, i could have chose another example such as the strokes, few years ago now but they were very "hyped" at the time and now everyone had forgotten about them and moved onto the next hipster band or trend...

hce is definitely right, some people DO just like things to be cool, if we're honest i'm sure we ALL know somebody like that. it's very hipster to say you like justin timberlake or whoever.... as lui qui s'approche says, people hide behind masks of irony and i think this is an example of that... just mho though.


finkelstein, you're joking right?? my point is that in the past we had people who were in the "counter culture" and had something to say and eventually influenced the mainstream because of that... now it seems like instead people who are mainstream can become "cool" due to irony or whatever....
 
 
Anna de Logardiere
17:28 / 11.08.08
If any of you had wandered into Art, Fashion and Design in the last few years and read some of the threads that tend toward serious you might not display the ignorance that I am seeing in this thread. Do I need to list the theorists who have concentrated on the semiotics of dress? You don't defend against ignorance by displaying more of your own. This thread is the best example of barbelith's tone being lowered that I have seen, forget all that nonsense in Policy, this is the pinnacle for me because the basic connections between Fashion and Cultural Theory are in front of your eyes everyday and yet you're not looking are you? All those caps and baggy trousers and punks and goths and you think dress means nothing?

I'm still struggling with the "you're not wearing that because you like it" thing

Because generations of women wore corsets and girdles because it got them off? Hey, who cares if this is deforming my rib cage, I like it. Is that what you think was going on? Oh and spending hours and hours putting soap in your hair to make it stand up properly and six inch high heels and wearing a hijab in sweltering heat, all because people like it. When you're too hot I suppose you strip your clothes off in public because that's what you would like to do? Brain-thought-engage please.

how on earth do you know what someone actually thinks about politics, culture, or anything other than fashion just by looking at the kind of fashions they're sporting?

Dick Hebdige, then I recommend Lipovetsky's Empire of Fashion, The Arcades Project by Walter Benjamin, Adorned in Dreams by Elizabeth Wilson and Roland Barthes' The Fashion System. People carry a symbolic system on their bodies, perhaps you can't tell their political persuasion 8 times out of 10 but culture can be read instantaneously from what people wear and if you're not reading that language you only have yourself to blame. That you can't read those things from the hipster's clothing only suggests that it's a very strong trend at the moment.

so called "counter culture" is not as meaningful as it used to be

I think the problem is that you're not part of the counterculture wildstallion, it seems to be passing you by.
 
 
electric monk
18:20 / 11.08.08
you're joking right??

Not at all. And I speak as someone who, once upon a time, owned every CD that Nirvana or Cobain appeared on and wept manly tears when the news broke that he'd killed himself.

But...

I don't know how Seattle or the "grunge" scene found themselves in the sights of the record execs at Geffen and elsewhere. All I know is that, in the early 90s, there was a sudden surge of these types of acts. Pearl Jam may have been the first. But then we get Nirvana, Soundgarden, Mudhoney, and oh just scads of these guys all being marketed under the label "alternative". Alternative? To what? Boy bands, I guess. Anyhoo, the labels come in, buy out these band's contracts (making everyone at SubPop scads of money, I hope) and then... produce and market the fuck out of them, with a healthy dollop of heavy MTV rotation. Go back and listen to Bleach and Nevermind. To my ears, it's barely the same band. I seem to recall that Cobain was somewhat upset about being produced and marketed the way they were, but he didn't really do much about it except piss and moan impotently and wear a dress to Headbanger's Ball. He made the album, toured, took loads of smack, hooked up with Courtney Love, took loads of smack, and...lessee,what else? Got Steve Albini to produce the next record. Got Unplugged. Took loads of smack. Fell asleep during interviews. Then killed himself. The only instance of Cobain "saying something" that I can think of is the liner notes for Incesticide, wherein he implores the archetypes who beat him up in high school to not give him money. From memory: "If you hate gay people or women in any way, don't buy our records and don't come to our shows." Which is an admirable sentiment, and worked about as well as you might expect.

IMHO, Cobain and crew lost their counter-culture cred the moment the signed with Geffen.* They could have stayed in Seattle with SubPop, but I don't suppose SubPop record royalties pay the smack bill.

I think the problem is that you're not part of the counterculture wildstallion, it seems to be passing you by.

DING-DING-DING! We have a winner!

-----

*Full disclosure: I'm 34 and probably wouldn't know the counter-culture or it's credit line if they walked up to me and made me an offer I couldn't refuse.
 
 
dark horse
18:30 / 11.08.08
huh well i'm sorry neither kurt or me are alternative enough for you, you must be really punk rock... [/sarcasm]
 
 
STOATIE LIEKS CHOCOLATE MILK
18:32 / 11.08.08
Because generations of women wore corsets and girdles because it got them off? Hey, who cares if this is deforming my rib cage, I like it. Is that what you think was going on? Oh and spending hours and hours putting soap in your hair to make it stand up properly and six inch high heels and wearing a hijab in sweltering heat, all because people like it. When you're too hot I suppose you strip your clothes off in public because that's what you would like to do? Brain-thought-engage please.

Erm, no, I think you're completely misunderstanding why I have a problem with that. The impression I got from the first page of this thread was that the people in question were deliberately wearing stuff they didn't like AS AN IRONIC STATEMENT. Not because it was imposed from outside as a norm or whatever. The part I have a problem with is that... well, if you think whatever you're wearing is an ironic statement, and you like making ironic statements, then pretty much ipso facto you like what you're wearing. Which is what I THOUGHT we were talking about here. I could be wrong. Hence the connection with the "drinking beer you don't like for its ironic value" thing. Less-condescension-please.
 
 
Eek! A Freek!
18:47 / 11.08.08
Way back it used to be shocking, some people would wear a t-shirt saying "Fuck". Then in the 90's people used to announce their edginess wearing "Fuct" t-shirts. Now they have cut to the chase and just wear "Ford", especially if they dislike the company. The overall meaning remains the same, I think, but it's somewhat obscured.

When I was young, trucker hats were pretty standard apparel: They were hats, not "trucker" hats. Then they were only for truckers and/or those thought of as "white-trash" or "rednecks". Now they are worn ironically. Thing is, they've always been available. Marketing's brilliant, I guess. The demands always been there, the demographic has changed.

Punks dressing like cowboys, young socialists dressing like they're Patrick Bateman, rappers co-opting bomber jackets... Seems to me like it's taking things you dislike and making it your own to render it harmless.

Can this be a small part of the motivation for hipsters?
 
 
Eek! A Freek!
18:54 / 11.08.08
When I was young, trucker hats were pretty standard apparel: They were hats, not "trucker" hats.

God I sound like a crusty old fart: Back in my day...

Sorry 'bout that.
 
 
Ruobhe
19:18 / 11.08.08
(From what I've read, Emo has become a large movement in South America, where people who follow the trend risk daily beatings by the more macho element of that society while promoting acceptance of their values. Any bblither from South America please correct me if I'm wrong)

Confirmed. The emo movement has become a large trend in here, of course adapted to each place with their own ways, in the obvious process of syncretism.
A curious case of this derivative movement can be found in Chile. A hybrid between the emo/screamo trend in the case of fashion, with reggueaton (a Portorican offspring of rap music)has been targeted by some extreme hate groups with violent spurts and electronic propaganda encouraging young people to kill "pokemones". (the name of the emo group)
A small article about this can be foung here.
 
 
Tuna Ghost: Pratt knot hero
19:27 / 11.08.08
huh well i'm sorry neither kurt or me are alternative enough for you, you must be really punk rock... [/sarcasm]

I'm a lutheran from goddam Lake Wobegon and you're not alternative enough for me. Which is to say, I'm having trouble believing you've got your finger on the pulse, so to speak, given the names (Lindsay Lohan? The Strokes?) you've associated with counter-culture.

my point is that in the past we had people who were in the "counter culture" and had something to say and eventually influenced the mainstream because of that... now it seems like instead people who are mainstream can become "cool" due to irony or whatever....

Based on this statement, I'm going to assume that if you can't find a counter culture or subculture that speaks about values that you can get behind, then you're just not looking hard enough.
 
 
HCE
19:29 / 11.08.08
While real-world violence is not at all funny, I confess that "Amenaza de muerte contra pokemones" made me laugh.
 
 
Anna de Logardiere
20:25 / 11.08.08
Less-condescension-please

I responded to the post that you wrote.
 
 
All Acting Regiment
12:32 / 12.08.08
Me: how on earth do you know what someone actually thinks about politics, culture, or anything other than fashion just by looking at the kind of fashions they're sporting?

A: Dick Hebdige, then I recommend Lipovetsky's Empire of Fashion, The Arcades Project by Walter Benjamin, Adorned in Dreams by Elizabeth Wilson and Roland Barthes' The Fashion System. People carry a symbolic system on their bodies ...

Oh yeah, I've read Dick Hebdige and enjoyed it. And yes of course you can read clothes like any other signs.

What I don't recall Hebdige ever trying to do, however, was to effect a separation of the world into 'decents' and 'hipsters', or positing that some people you see and you just know that they're a nasty fake person with no real values who doesn't really like what they're doing. Or, that you can go to a might club where everyone wears X style and listens to X music and drinks X beer, and yet none the less some of the people there will be hipsters and some of them will be authentic. Or that liking to dance and look good to music is not the same as liking it (which has the ugly corrolary of non-dancing and ugliness as 'authenticity').

The above stuff is entirely separate to the question of what meaning a given piece of clothing has, or what kind of politics might be going on. It's more of a wall of guff you seem always to have to get through before you can talk about the good stuff (and yes, I've been guilty many a time of reproducing it, which is partly why I'm coming down hard on it here).

What I find interesting about this conversation so far is this principle of the 'hipster' as someone who isn't properly, organically connected to the modes they choose to associate with: they're doing it to be cool and they're also picking and referencing dead pop culture from the past or from other places.

If this is the case, then surely it's also somewhat inorganic for, say, persons living in Brighton to be discussing social manners in terms of 'hipsters', this being an American term from an American context?
 
  

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