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From Blackpool to Outer Mongolia: the politics of tourism and holidays

 
 
Disco is My Class War
12:44 / 27.09.06
What do people think about tourism? Where do you go for holidays? Do you consider yourself an ethical tourist, and what practices make up the gamut of 'ethical tourism'? What is tourism about -- is it about a desire to 'slough off' the accoutrements of capitalist modernity, like micromanaged time, machines, skyscrapers, pollution, etc, and if so, why is it that only people who benefit from capitalism can actually afford to be tourists? Ir is tourism just about being somewhere different, no matter where? What about package holidays, package tours? What desire is being met in package holidays? Why is it that so many tourist haunts all seem so same-same? (But different?!)

I spent a month in Thailand recently. It was the first time I've travelled alone overseas, and I was doing research (blah blah, I've explained this in other threads) as wellas having a holiday. While I was there, I was reading Travel Worlds: Journeys in Contemporary Cultural Politics, which is quite savage about the imperialist nature of tourism in general. Despite the fact that I wasn't traveling as either a 'world traveller' or as a 'tourist', I felt interpellated and, at times, weird about being an Anglo male in an Asian country. Weird about the different ways that money works, to buy social relationships or leisure activities, weird about the ways in which I saw other tourists behaving towards Thais.

I was also watching how I wrote about my experiences in Thailand. Instead of blogging about it, I wrote group emails while I was there -- a return to a really outdated form of internet communication, but one indelibly associated with travel in my head. How do people write about the travels you do? Do you use photography or flickr instead? Do you feel you have a responsibility to return from a holiday having documented it properly, and what does 'properly' mean?

I'm going to quote something from Travel Worlds, which I hope will set off discussion. It's in an essay called "Tourists, Terrorists and Death Value", by Peter Phipps. He's talking about two strategies used in writing about tourism and travel, and practing tourism, to deny one's own political position 'in the landscape'.

1. Deny the presence of mass, or any other tourists, in the visited locale. This is most commonly practiced in photography where frequent attempts are made to erase other tourists, and any other signs of capitalist modernity, from the frame; a symbolic destruction of the signs of the self and its possible multiplication. Any challenge to the claim that being here in this place is a unique, unrepeatable event, any rupture that might shatter the aura of the real, must be denied, erased and refused.

2. In those moments when the presence of other tourists is an undeniable and inescapable fact, the primary strategy is that of removal by distinction. Other tourists become the 'them': the uncouth, despised, insensitive, problematic, simplistic tourist, who threatens to give the whole game away and blow the 'real traveller's' cover (he or she in search of the real, the intelligence officer of romanticism.) This is a common strategy of travel writers from Paul Theroux through the more playful Pico Iyer or the ruggedly adventurist Robyn Davidson. Indeed, the claim to be more than a tourist, to see that which could otherwise not be seen, to travel with the purpose of gathering intelligence to write a report is the very currency of travel writing.

...

All this leads to the conclusion that there is an underside of abject self-loathing, almost to the point of homicidal fantasy, in tourist ideologies. Tourist discourses consistently return to themes which deny, negate or obliterate the presence of other tourists where this comflicts with their commitment to contact with the authentic Other. Erik Cohen has a brilliant illustration of this in his account of beach and hill tourism in Thailand. He describes how foreign tourists go to the hills of the 'Goldren Triangle' to observe, photograph and experience the tribal peoples, cultures and costumes of the region. Cohen observes that when these same tourists go to the beach islands of southern Thailand they express and demonstrat almost complete indifference to the existence of 'exotic' and vibrant village life a hundred metres inland from the beaches... In the first situation, discovering authentic cultural difference is the tourist's inspired mission; in the second, the experience of 'nature' obliterates the local inhabitants as anything but service personnel.


This quote says quite a lot about Thailand, and I didn't intend it to. But maybe people can think of other places in which a similar differentiation between destinations takes place, or where something entirely different happens. Thoughts?

Lastly, I'd be interested in talking about the economics of tourism and its effects on particular places.
 
 
grant
14:39 / 27.09.06
Not as developed as I'd like but:

1. Economies of tourism are a major factor in self-simulacra-ization. I *think* Eco gets into this in what he wrote about amusement parks, but I'm not sure. I know it's something I've seen myself. Staying in a "Key West" themed hotel in Disney World (which is, like, in Florida) -- artificial lakes (freshwater) with fake pilings with fake barnacles (saltwater) on them. I got the same feeling in Indonesia and South Africa, seeing "authentic" "native" "rituals" performed for googly-eyed watchers.

2. There's a third option that I think may or may not inflect the reading of tourist writing up there: first-person narrative that's about the tourist machinery, to some degree. Sean Condon's Sean & David's Long Drive does it, and so does P.J. O'Rourke's Holidays in Hell (slightly less so). They're painfully self-aware, and perhaps self-loathing, but also describe at length things like hotels & local guides, and generally comment on the politics of the place being visited. Dave Barry Does Japan has some great commentary on airplanes, hotels and magazines.

Mark Twain's Innocents Abroad does this in spades, so I don't think it's a uniquely modern thing. And I don't think Twain separates himself from the tourist crowd or tries to establish any kind of "authentic" experience the mobs are missing out on.

I kinda think "ethical" tourism starts at this point. (Yeah, with the funny travelogues.) Acknowledging that authenticity is constructed, in some way, or isn't really what the author is engaging with in any but an artificial way.
 
 
Lurid Archive
18:18 / 27.09.06
Can I ask for a clarification? Is the tourism you want to get at, Mister Disco, primarily that of rich westerners in less rich countries where the disparity of wealth is a big ethical issue? Because a lot of travel I'm familiar with involves travel inside europe, or even western europe, where the ethical questions are rather different.

Having said that, travelling almost always involves consuming a huge amount of fuel, which has always made me rather sceptical of the whole ethical tourism thing.
 
 
Disco is My Class War
01:58 / 28.09.06
Can I ask for a clarification? Is the tourism you want to get at, Mister Disco, primarily that of rich westerners in less rich countries where the disparity of wealth is a big ethical issue? Because a lot of travel I'm familiar with involves travel inside europe, or even western europe, where the ethical questions are rather different.

I'm open to talking about any kind of tourism, and I particularly want to avoid only talking about one kind of tourism at the expense of another. So what are the ethical questions that come up when travelling around Western Europe?
 
 
Baz Auckland
05:42 / 28.09.06
A lot of the same things I think that arise in developing world travel? Overtouristed places becoming overly reliant on tourists, millions of visitors causing damage to historic places and artifacts. Disruption of life for the locals by drunks and partiers...

In more tropical destinations that attract more package tourists going to resorts there seems to be a lot more environmental damage to previously pristine areas, but I've wondered if tourists going to resorts is better in some ways. It's seen as the most damaging kind of tourism, but it might be better for the country in others.

Cancun, for example, was sparesly inhabited before the government decided to turn it into Cancun. Now, it's a pretty awful place to live and work, but it tries to concentrate all the tourists into one spot. One spot gets destroyed environmentally and socially, but in theory, it could keep all of the negative effects of tourism in one contained spot.

Of course, this isn't the case. The whole coast from Cancun to Belize is almost all horrible resorts which have destoyed a lot of forests and consume a lot of freshwater, and Cancun is just one of the resorts built like this (Los Cabos, Acapulco) but maybe it's something that could work on a smaller scale to limit the effects of tourism...

Tourism is a big evil in a lot of ways, but it's something that's hard to control. Governments usually want to make the most money from it, and market the destination moreso than try and prevent people from going.

Bhutan is interesting for this, since they strictly limit the numbers of visitors each year... I also heard last year that Prague and Talinin have been trying to stop stag parties from invading on the weekends, but I don't know the specifics...
 
 
pointless & uncalled for
07:37 / 28.09.06
Deny the presence of mass, or any other tourists, in the visited locale. This is most commonly practiced in photography where frequent attempts are made to erase other tourists, and any other signs of capitalist modernity, from the frame; a symbolic destruction of the signs of the self and its possible multiplication. Any challenge to the claim that being here in this place is a unique, unrepeatable event, any rupture that might shatter the aura of the real, must be denied, erased and refused.

Is this being presented as an absolute? If so then it's gobshite. Part of cultural tourism is to take an interest in the history of the locale that you are visiting. Now obviously history inlcudes the mere fractional moments before the present but the interest tends to lie in the period of construction. Taking a picture that includes sings of contemporary culture, such as other tourists, cars, neon lights etc, alters the focus of the subject matter to how it interacts with the present. By eliminating signifiers of the present as you can, you create an aide memoir into your explorations. Afterall, tourism doesn't end at the beginning of your journey home. It's not about uniqueness but that a photograph is as much about the photographers perceptions as the subject and what it means to them.

I appreciate the irony of eliminating signs of the present in a photograph.

In a similar vein, elimination of tourists may be key into recording the photographers perception of the character of life away from the trade of tourists. Anyone who has lived or worked in a tourist destination will attest that life is more than just catering to the needs of visiting outsiders.
 
 
pointless & uncalled for
07:43 / 28.09.06
The Thailand situation isn't greatly diffrent to many other tourist destinations. Take a look at Spain or Italy for example. To look at the "real" life there, tourist bus hours to quaint little villages in the interior or miles away from the metropolitain centres, whereas mere streets away from languishing on the beach very much the same scenes are played out.
 
 
Lurid Archive
11:43 / 28.09.06
But in what sense are these scenes "real"? I mean, I act as a sort of informal tour guide for visitors to Barcelona, and they are after some authenticity, in that they want to eat in places that aren't just places tourists eat, for example. Which is perfectly valid, as far as I can tell. But I was going to say that one of the differences with travel to Spain or Italy is that many of the ethical problems one might have with travel elsewhere disappear.

There is always the ecological problem, of course, which most are happy to ignore. Then there is the problem whereby you can get tourist enclaves which, while creating employment, essentially removes locals from the resort except as bar staff, hotel worker etc. This was a worry in Spain, but doesn't look like it is going to spread - for instance, it isn't an issue here in Barcelona, despite the large tourist industry.

I think there are points of view here that I don't really understand. I probably need it spelled out to me why I might think of tourists as "evil". I suppose if one visits a country where one is significantly wealthier than the locals, this creates a distortion on the relationship with the people....but I'm not sure if this situation is simply more visible than the general condition of being wealthier, and actually isn't any worse. It might even be a good deal more ethical to be a tourist, than to be a standard consumer.
 
 
pointless & uncalled for
12:03 / 28.09.06
But in what sense are these scenes "real"?

Real in as much as they are not in any way removed although potentially not real depending on the needs and interpretation of the viewer.

Oddly enough it was Barcelona upon which I was framing my answer. During my stay there I took it upon my self to pay a visit to the Gaudi gardens. Using my map, I elected to take a route that diverted away from the main drag and through some of the residential areas. It was there that I witnessed scenes of daily life that are none to dissimilar to that which a turist might be taught to expect in village life.

However, this is not a uniqueness for Barcelona though and is repeated all over. Heck, one can find old fashioned Cornish life in the backstreets of Saltash if one takes the time to look.
 
 
Lurid Archive
12:53 / 28.09.06
But...the daily domestic life one sees wondering residential areas is no less authentic than the hustle and bustle one sees in the most touristic places. And how does this relate to ethics?
 
 
pointless & uncalled for
13:23 / 28.09.06
Kind of my point I think.

It wasn't really relating to ethics but more so responding to MDs issues about Thailand.
 
 
Disco is My Class War
13:58 / 28.09.06
I don't think that what's said in that paragraph is being presented as an absolute. More as an attempt to make sense of things that happen 'accidentally', like taking photographs of beautiful views but making sure the garbage, or the odd boatload of sunburnt hawaiian shirt-wearers, doesn't get in the frame. Aesthetic beauty in photographs is about trying to take away the 'best' bits to remember, right? It's just an observation, I think, that that process of subtracting the unattractive parts of a scene from the frame is politically charged, done for a reason.

I think tourism might be presented as evil for several reasons. I am mostly thinking of relatively 'untouched' places, here, rather than, say, Italy or Spain. There's the ecological element: more people create more waste, developments are built, modernity brings pollution etc. Places that were once run according to very different rules of use and ownership, like beaches, become totally privatised and the people who used to live there are often forced off. People and food sources are displaced by development, which seems to happen not long after a given place becomes a 'tourist mecca'.

Then there's the economics of it all. I think tourism is probably most questionable where it is part of a nation-state's structural adjustment program, ie, part of a process of 'modernising' and 'development'. It's certainly most profitable in that situation: lower wages, less industrial regulation. Mass tourism industries don't really care about the political situation in a particular place, as long as it's 'stable' enough for tourists to be safe. Burma is a good example there: it's run by a military junta, and dissidents get executed or detained forever, but never mind, lovely dive spots!

I guess I also have a bit of a reaction against how some tourist ghettoes are perceived as annexes of one particular nation, just because they're 'big tourist spots'. Bali, for instance, is regarded by many Australians as if it's part of Australia, and as if they should be treated like they own it, or at the very least, belong to it. Bali has a whole lot of night-clubs that are Anglo-only and where, if you're Indonesian, you'll be refused entry. I find that quite repugnant; people are going to a place where their money is worth more and accommodation is cheaper, in order to socialise exclusively with white people. The only way a local can operate in that economy is to work in some service industry, subordinating them to the tourists yet again, through an economic relation. It's a kind of colonisation. Of course, people will point out that many Australians have gone to Bali to live, surf and help the local community... That's a total minority, however.
 
 
pointless & uncalled for
14:21 / 28.09.06
Aesthetic beauty in photographs is about trying to take away the 'best' bits to remember, right?

That would rather depend on your definition of "best bits" ad the aim of the photographer and their tastes. In several real senses I could justifiably answer no, but then again, in the case of the snap-shooters, it's kind of a yes.

Which leaves me wondering about the differential in ethics in tourism of those whose photograph and those that take pictures, if you see what I mean.
 
 
grant
17:14 / 28.09.06
Aesthetic beauty in photographs is about trying to take away the 'best' bits to remember, right?

I've got some great pictures of Coca-Cola signs on the Great Wall of China, but maybe I'm a little *too* fond of meta-tourism. I wanted to remember the disruption caused by the tourist industry, I suppose. I also have a few photographs of flocks of yellow-hatted Chinese tourists (they wear these sort of uniform caps given them by their package tour organizers, I think).


The only way a local can operate in that economy is to work in some service industry, subordinating them to the tourists yet again, through an economic relation. It's a kind of colonisation.

See, I kind of live in a colony like that, only it's a bizarre auto-colonization, since it's folks from places like New York and New Jersey (and, to a lesser degree Illinois and Michigan) who flock here during season. Tourist season. The whole economy is built around it.

As a result, I'm a little suspicious of the idea that, say, being a European/British tourist in Italy or Spain is all that ethically different from being the same tourist in Nepal or Zambia. There's a difference in economic scale, maybe, but the process seems nearly the same.
 
 
sorenson
00:34 / 29.09.06
This is adding a question rather than any answers, but I think it's interesting to think about. A lot of travellers (myself included) work really hard to deny the 'tourist' label, by doing things like staying in one place for a longer time, thereby 'really getting to know the place'; or taking photos that have a 'meta-tourist' focus, like grant's photos of China (I have heaps of photos like that of Japan - the highway right on top of the beach, the millions of bikes at the station with Mt Fuji in the background etc); travelling to places that are 'off the beaten track' etc.

The question for me is, is this kind of travel, a kind that I openly acknowledge that am pretty in love with, just as 'evil' as the kinds of tourism that MD and some others are talking about, the kind that destroys places and economically colonialises the locals? Are we fooling ourselves if we think there is any way to travel that is somehow ethical? Is there a distinction between tourism and travel?
 
 
HCE
14:39 / 29.09.06
And another quick question:

But...the daily domestic life one sees wondering residential areas is no less authentic than the hustle and bustle one sees in the most touristic places.

What does authentic mean in this context? I'm not really sure how one kind of living is more or less authentic than another? Does it mean traditional rather than contemporary?
 
 
stabbystabby
23:18 / 09.11.06
the yellow hatted groups might also have been Japanese tourists - that's a pretty popular trend in Japan. It's so the tour guide can keep track of them easily.

the guide will usually have a little flag too.

...

while i do think that tourism is a problem, environmentally, cultural, etc, i do wonder how much of the opposition to tourism comes from a fairly parochialist perspective. i mean, in a globalised world, it helps to have at least some of the people writing your foreign policy to have actually visited the coutries they're talking about.
 
 
diz
23:35 / 13.11.06
I am increasingly as skeptical of the arguments against tourism as I've become about issues of cultural appropriation.

The wealth disparity between the developed and developing worlds is absolutely horrible and racist, but is it any more horrible and racist to be a privileged white Westerner with an impoverished population working for you in a tourist-industry service capacity in your presence than it is to be the same with the same impoverished population working in a factory making widgets for you? As horrible as the wealth disparity is, the power relationship that results from it is unavoidable, whether or not you choose to stay home. There's no amount of supposedly "ethical" shopping you can do that's going to change that situation.

Similarly, the cultural impact issue. Yes, capitalism fetishizes/commoditizes cultures like it fetishizes/commoditizes everything else, but, again I don't see how tourism is a special case in that respect. Furthermore, I'm troubled by the degree to which criticisms of the cultural impact of tourism, and the narratives of so-called "ethical tourism," hang on the deeply problematic notion of "authenticity."

Who validates the "authenticity" of the romanticized noble savages? Usually other Westerners, academics or elitist "real travellers." It relegates the local people to a sort of cultural stasis, reinforces their value as almost living museum pieces valued primarily as part of the spectacle of capitalism, and denies them any sort of agency, especially when you consider that many of the local people might actually be interested in at least selectively adopting aspects of Western culture.

In general, I think travel helps more than it harms, at least culturally, and I try not to get too hung up on issues of this particular permutation of white guilt when I'm doing it myself.
 
  
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