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Making your own clothes

 
  

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mondo a-go-go
14:54 / 28.12.04
Maenad, I think you mean "sewing", don't you? (sorry)

I forgot to mention that I made a skirt out of a hacked-up pair of old black cords. Once again, no machine was used; I just tacked together some panels from the legs -- the trousers were quite flared, so I was able to get quite a good A-line out of them. Just tacked them together with some contrasting red thread. I did whipstitch (that's the kind of stitch where you loop the thread around the two edges of the fabric) some bits of it, and then wore it out (at Stoatie's birthday pubmeet) while the top of it was still unfinished. I later added the belt loop from the top of the trousers (without the zip) but it's not really working for me; I need to adjust it a little. In any case, it has inspired me to try the same kind of thing with some of my old tatty jeans that I hadn't got around to ditching at the charity shops...
 
 
HCE
18:31 / 28.12.04
I think there's a way to trick my sewing machine into doing a selvage edge -- or rather a sort of pseudo-selvage -- perhaps by doing a zig-zag stich and letting it run slightly off the edge of the fabric?
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
13:35 / 05.01.05
My dear parents have provided me with some money to buy a sewing machine - o joy - and have fixed on an Elna model (cheapest one that does stretch stitching), which I will be buying when the cheque has cleared... and then taking up the suggestion of finding a nice, easy pattern to sew. Actually I am in desperate need of a new dressing-gown, so maybe one of those? I just have to be careful not to get too excited near the fabric shops in Berwick Street...
 
 
Ariadne
20:12 / 05.01.05
A dressing gown should be okay, not too tricky. Or a straightforward skirt - though putting a zip in is a bit fiddly, I suppose. So long as you follow the pattern you should be fine.
 
 
Ariadne
20:15 / 05.01.05
And I'd just say, try to think structurally as you do it -- think it through in 3D, I suppose. Read the instructions and also think about what should logically end up where.
A plain fabric's easiest, stripes (probably) the hardest.
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
13:48 / 01.02.05
I have been sidetracked by knitting. Got my mother to teach me knit and purl stitches over the holidays, and I've made a scarf (yeah, piece of cake, but I thought it was quite good for a first effort - I didn't drop a single stitch) and am midway through another one.

Did anyone else read the piece on Bust/Stitch'n'Btich in the Grauniad? (I know Anna the Beard has seen these before...) I was interested in the association of crafts with 'third-wave' feminism... I don't believe that the first and second waves can truly be said to be 'over', but am all for being able to do things like crochet your own afghan, etc. Obviously everyone should also be able to learn how to wire a plug, et.c if they so wish.

I'm going to get hold of a copy of the magazine and investigate further.
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
18:39 / 01.02.05
You might also want to check out Rowan's R2 stuff Their yarn isn't cheap, obv, you don't have to use it but lots of the designs are relatively simple and really distinctive/stylish.

The magazine you can get from decent habardashers'/craft shops.
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
10:15 / 02.02.05
Are there any in London? John Lewis is the best place I have found so far. You'd think there would be more, but apparently not...
 
 
Ariadne
17:23 / 02.02.05
It's really hard to find fabric shops these days. I think there's one down a street off Oxford Street, kind of across from John Lewis - I realise that's a bit vague. It's on the left as you look down the street!
But JL is the best I managed to find.
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
12:05 / 04.02.05
There are some decent if expensive ones in Soho - Borovick et al. And there are lots of fabric shops around Brick Lane, handily for me. But it's wool I can't get hold of outside John Lewis... wonder why.

I think some of those patterns in the Rowan R2 book might be a little... er... directional for me (twinset and pearls here I come), but the stuff looks interesting, doesn't it?
 
 
Ex
12:07 / 04.02.05
I'll check RD Franks for the magazine this afternoon, Kit-Cat. They stock many fashion related goodies. Is it actually called 'Bitch and Stitch'? You're not just setting me up to swear at a salesperson?

Also, Welsh yarn extravagaza colinette. As modelled on goth's heads, but you can make clothes from it as well. Amazing textures, and synthetic as well as natural.
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
12:31 / 04.02.05
No, the mag run by Debbie Stoller (who wrote Stitch'n'Bitch, and yes, that's the title) is called Bust - I think it's a more general women's mag, really, just less gloopy than Cosmo et al.

If they have any decent knitting mags it would be fab if you could let me know (not too far away from the shop myself, seems a bit cheeky to send you on a mission!) and I can go and have a good old nose.

Colinette looks fab - a good thing I don't have a credit card really...
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
18:07 / 04.02.05
For wool, also try out-of-centre charity shops, they're often faaaaab.

Will ask a couple of Londony folk where they get their yarnn. Buying direct/online from the makers is always an option?
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
18:09 / 04.02.05
Bust is pretty good, actually, though expensive as it's an import. You can usually get it and 'Bitch', along similar lines, from the big Borders on Ox. Street
 
 
lekvar
20:26 / 04.02.05
to the knitters out there:
Any advice on how to start, where to learn, books to read, etc? I'm fixing to knit myself a scarf, since nobody seems to know how to make a good one for less than $500 anymore, but I have no idea where to begin.
 
 
Triplets
17:11 / 06.02.05
Next do scarves for £5, lek'.
 
 
mondo a-go-go
15:36 / 09.02.05
I have a few back-issues of Bust if you want to take a look. It's just about my favourite "lifestyle" magazine around (I wish someone would start a British version ASAP)

I refuse to learn knitting until I've used up all of my fabric that's taking up so much room. At the rate I keep accumulating it, that is never going to happen. There are some stitch'n' bitch sessions going on in London, though, I'm sure you could find the info online...
 
 
HCE
19:08 / 17.02.05
http://www.englishcut.com

Of possible interest -- a tailor's blog, with some useful commentary.
 
 
LykeX
22:06 / 22.02.05
Yesterday, surfing, I came across the idea of making clothes out of duct tape. I like this idea very much. Like any intelligent person, duct tape has a special place in my heart, plus I absolutely hate to shop for clothes. This could be a really good thing (also considering how easy it would be to repair).

However, is it actually pratical or is it just some fashion idiocy? For example, I imagine such clothes aren't very warm, making them impractical in winter, and it seems that they might be excellent sweat traps, making them unbearable in the summer.

Experiences, advice, thoughts?
 
 
lekvar
02:13 / 23.02.05
Duct Tape clothing is not just warm, it's stifling. It doesn't breath at all so any heat an moisture stays right next to you.
I once made a mask, gauntlets and vest out of a single roll. Quite a value, and durable too. Good for Halloween. But after about an hour the joke is over and you'll want to die.
 
 
LykeX
15:21 / 24.02.05
Thanks Lekvar, I see your point. I still think there ought to be something you can use there, considering the fact that duct tape is the universal solution to all problems.
Maybe some sort of ventilation system, like little holes or something. I'm gonna think about this.
 
 
mondo a-go-go
13:14 / 25.04.05
Kit-Cat, I was just in Liberty's and they seem to have a really nice selection of wool. I'm not a knitter, so I didn't investigate too closely but there was a good variety of colour and texture as far as I could tell.

If the very nice lady in the haberdashery department was anything to go by, they'll be helpful and friendly. And she told me that Liberty's is planning to expand their haberdashery department since the one at John Lewis has been shrunk, and that made me happy, because they have some great buttons in there and if they increase their stock at that quality I'll probably never leave it.... :]
 
 
Withiel: DALI'S ROTTWEILER
16:17 / 29.04.05
I've just spent a fruitful two weeks or so constructing a jacket out of the free laptop bags I seem to acquire at a depressing rate. Remarkably difficult, because the fabric's extremely tough, but the end result will of course be waterproof, and it's remarkable how authentic all the zips and straps are in the finished product. Also, I discovered that duct tape is fasntastic when sewing with heavy fabrics - you tape the two pieces together first, and then sew over it with it held in place.
 
 
lekvar
18:38 / 29.04.05
Wow, I have got to see that. Pix, please.
 
 
mondo a-go-go
14:09 / 13.09.05
A couple of people already saw me wearing this on Saturday, but here are some pics of a top I made last weekend. It was kind of a bodged job, as these things always are when I do them, because I was totally making it up as I went along. But I was pleased with the results (not exactly final, as I'm bound to play around with it some more), especially the back of it, which covers up my back (psoriasis = paranoia), and I think it looks pretty classy, considering how hacked together it was.

I discovered it was really hard to get decent photos of it, though, those were the best I could manage, despite playing around with all the various settings on my camera...
 
 
Saturn's nod
12:16 / 12.03.06
I'm making a shirt, and I don't have any of the fusible interfacing I would usually use for the collar & cuffs. I do have some stiff unbleached 100% cotton canvas, which worked nicely as interfacing in the brim of the bonnet I made last weekend. I'm trying to decided whether to use the canvas in this shirt, which is being made out of pricey organic-certified fine quality eco-bleached white linen, lightweight, 48 threads to the inch by my count.

I think in some applications sew-in interfacing canvas is seen as a better quality, e.g. bespoke shirt-making, which is kind of the effect I am aiming for. Something must have been used before the invention of modern interfacing, and I wonder whether this kind of cotton canvas is the thing. The canvas I also count as 48 threads per inch, but it's very tightly-woven, quite stiff, maybe three times heavier than the linen.

I would be more confident of achieving the usual effect using iron-on (fusible) interfacing, but there is the problem of getting to a fabric shop during office hours and/or waiting for a delivery, and I am in a bit of a hurry to get this project done.

Any wisdom or ideas? Has anyone used cotton canvas as interfacing instead of modern pressed interfacing? Anyone know about the history of interfacing?
 
 
whistler
11:24 / 21.09.06
Just in case anyone interested in clothes-making is around these days I have decided to resurrect this thread.

I've decided to make all of my clothes (apart from undies) for a year, to escape the problems of sweatshop-made clothes and less creativity than I'd like in the shops. Just for sheer couldn't-buy-it-ness, I'm thinking of starting by making something like this jacket using something like this fabric in bubblegum pink (if you're into fabric porn, click the 'Enlarge View' button. Phwooaaaarrgh.)

*cough* Anyway. Is anyone else here currently engaged in clothes making? Does the jacket look horribly complicated to make? I might look into more '2-dimensional' kimono-type jacket patterns for something that has armholes instead of arms and no pesky collar to sort out.
 
 
chaated
18:05 / 21.09.06
It is very likely that I will obtain a starter sewing machine within 1 months time and will embark on a journey similar to yours. I guess I need to start finding patterns, althought for starters I'd just like to figure out how to make t-shirts that fit right and look cool. Any ideas on how hard this is?

A friend of mine said I should just take a shirt that fits good and take it apart to use as the template. Genius.
 
 
grant
18:08 / 22.09.06
Y'know, I often grumble about how hard it is to find T-shirts with small, high necks -- the kind you see a lot in movies from the late 60s (like Billy Jack). I have two shirts like this -- one, a stretched out thing from the University of Amsterdam, the other, a slightly old shirt that I inherited from someone who'd bought an Audi TT (the shirt was part of the whole "you're buying a gear lifestyle, swinger!" package). They're dying, though. The shirts.

So if you figure out how to get that cut, lemme know.
 
 
doozy floop
18:29 / 22.09.06
This might be a very basic question, but what's the best way of turning up trousers? I appear to be shorter than the average bear, but my various approaches to avoiding a train of trouserleg following me around and crying out for a gaggle of urchins to scurry behind me lifting my excess fabric out of the muddy puddles of a grimy damp city have not, shall we say, been a resounding success.

I have chopped a few inches off of scruffy-to-start-with cords, and I have turned up further already-turned-up wool trousers, and I have even removed excess material and recreated a hem of sorts, all of which solves the problem of trailing in the dirt, but somehow they never seem to hang correctly. What is to be done??

(That is to say, what can I do that doesn't involve actually making trousers that fit properly from scratch. I had clothes-making lessons at school, once upon a time. They were traumatic. Never again.)
 
 
HCE
09:40 / 23.09.06
When you say they don't hang correctly, can you describe what you mean? Is the bottom edge uneven, or does shortening them change the proportions in a way you dislike?

I have a silk wrap dress that, although a size too small, hangs open in front to about my navel. It really is the weirdest thing, and I don't think it's meant to be worn with something else under it. Has anybody tried making a dress into a blouse + skirt, or have any other suggestions?
 
 
Saturn's nod
10:09 / 23.09.06
Yay, more sewing people.

whistler wrote:
I've decided to make all of my clothes (apart from undies) for a year, to escape the problems of sweatshop-made clothes and less creativity than I'd like in the shops.

Wow, respect!

Does the jacket look horribly complicated to make?

I don't think it does. I think you could make that: you've sewn stuff before right, though maybe less complicated? When I have a new pattern sometimes I'll make a first attempt out of cheap fabric, to see how to get it to work right before laying into the expensive stuff with scissors.

chaated wrote: ... obtain a starter sewing machine
My top tip for sewing machine acquisition is to scout around for a late 1970s/early 80s machine second hand. I would guess you will want a straight stitch and a zigzag and the machine needs to be able to wind bobbins for the bottom thread effectively. There are a number of sewing machine shops around where they do servicing and reconditioning, and someone will be able to recommend a good solid machine. If they have survived this long in working order they are built to last, and inbuilt obsolescence was less extreme back then anyway.

I need to start finding patterns
Yeah, the idea about cutting a new shirt from an old one should work. One thing to do is to chalk (get a tailor's chalk wedge) the edges or seams of the old garment and press it carefully flat onto your new fabric, transferring the chalk marks: then add seam allowance as appropriate and you're away.

You can also buy patterns printed on tissue paper from sewing shops and big department stores with a fashion fabrics area. Quite often the staff are enthusiasts so you could ask the staff person with the best dress which patterns she recommends for a beginner. There will probably be big laminated pattern books tied down on a desk somewhere to browse in the shop, then you write down the number of the pattern in your size and ask for it at the counter. (Remember to bring your measurements along to check vs those on the pattern.)

One advantage of buying a pattern for a t-shirt is that the patterns marked "very easy" will have detailed instructions on layout and construction, a glossary, and so on. Whereas, making a shirt from an old shirt requires reasonably taxing reverse engineering though if you are inclined that way it can be a blast of course.
 
 
doozy floop
12:54 / 23.09.06
When you say they don't hang correctly, can you describe what you mean? Is the bottom edge uneven, or does shortening them change the proportions in a way you dislike?

The edges always seem even enough, but the weight seems wrong... they sit over shoes wrong and they flap around all wrong when I'm walking, and it's hard to explain but they just feel all wrong! My trousers are usually bootcut or otherwise fairly wide-legged at the bottom, and I can't think in 3D but would that have something to do with it?
 
 
HCE
18:00 / 23.09.06
Well if there's less fabric at the bottom, as there would be if you shortened a bootcut, then the bottom edge would be lighter and more flappy. You could make the hem heavier by:

folding the hem over a few times before sewing it down,
sewing a strip of fabric on the inside of them (a great place to use a small strip of something soft and colorful -- it won't show to others but you'll feel it and know it's there -- a friend of mine uses old silk pyjamas)
sew in a string of weight beads or ball chain -- like they do for the edges of curtains.

Try just pinning something in place to see how much weight you need to get the drape you want.
 
 
whistler
12:04 / 24.09.06
Hurrah! People talking about clothes-making!

for starters I'd just like to figure out how to make t-shirts that fit right and look cool

Chaated, jersey is a Good Thing because it's not necessarily all that expensive and it drapes well. It's kinda stretchy, which can be hard work (I find non-stretchy stuff like cotton easier to sew) so maybe try to get some which is heavier/thicker and therefore has less 'give'. If you practice different kinds of stitch on a spare scrag-end of fabric you'll probably discover how best to handle it.

T-shirts can just be two oblongs of fabric sewn together with a neck-slash and arm-slashes and if you're one of those people who look cool in dressing-up clothes you could possibly then just tie a belt around yourself and be ready to go out looking a little like a pirate. I can't over-emphasise the fun and learning that can be had by playing around with cheap fabric and inventing ways to make stuff.

Personally, and possibly to my detriment, I rarely go out in a less-than-fully-formed outfit these days (despite a proud history of regularly going out wearing my curtains during the mid-90s). I like a proper neck-hole shape and sleeves of some description - this is where looking at your fave t-shirt as SN suggests or getting a simple pattern can be good. One good pattern in a shape you like will last you for years as you make the same thing in different colours/textures. I once had an a-line skirt pattern like that, which I have now lost, and remember sighingly from time to time.

Fred, I have made a dress into a skirt and it wasn't too hard, although the results were DIY-ish because I didn't take enough care. I did this:

1. Stood inside the dress trying to work out what length of skirt it could become to be most flattering/practical and fit properly. (I like long skirts so for me the bit just under the boobs becomes the new waistband.)
Work out how you would fasten it, too. I've never adapted a wrap-dress but perhaps you could adopt the already-existing ties?
2. Drew a couple of marks to show where the new waistband was, while still wearing it.
3. Took it off and measured a couple of inches above the new waistband.
4. Cut! Sew waistband! Rah!
(I've used a wide ribbon to make a new waistband when I couldn't find the energy to construct anything more 'proper', by folding it in half over the raw edge of the fabric, tacking and then sewing down firmly.)
6. That's it.
 
  

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