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Cultural fashion reading

 
 
Tryphena Absent
23:05 / 25.07.02
I've just started reading some material on fashion in Western culture (for a dissertation I'm writing) and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for books I should dabble in to. So far I've got a few, the main ones being Barthes' Fashion System and Lipovetsky's The Empire of Fashion and I've also found a reader by a woman called Jennifer Craik with a nice bibliography in the back. I just thought I'd check in case any 'lithers had done any interesting reading in the general area. Thanks!

... Barbelith, my favourite study aid
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
11:52 / 26.07.02
What line are you planning to take, and is it period-specific? Is I suppose a good starting question... also, where are you? If in London, the V&A shop is not a bad place to start.
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
14:18 / 26.07.02
for visual culture and a gender studies take on dress, Marjorie Garber's Vested Interest:Cross Dressing and cultural Anxiety, is definitely worth a look.

am intrigued, what's the topic?
 
 
Tryphena Absent
15:08 / 27.07.02
Well I guess that's really my problem -- the topic-- because I'm really not sure yet. I thought I'd start by doing some reading and then see what I wanted to do but overall my very very basic ideas kind of revolve around the bias towards a person based on what they're wearing. My problem is that it is such a general idea and that fashion is so constructed and explored in a historical sense and while that's going to be brilliant in an introductory sense it's not quite what I'm going for.
I am considering a section on the ambiguously (is that spelt right?) gendered features of the fashion model and the reading around that is going to be a little bit more difficult I think but thanks for the Marjorie Garber suggestion because I was considering using something by her and it sounds like that might be the book for me.
I'm also just outside London and I'll take a look round the V&A shop, next time I go in, thanks for your help!
 
 
Ganesh
21:16 / 27.07.02
You could try selecting a fashion 'classic' and focussing in on its history and the differing ways its been used over time to present different facets to the world. Jeans, DMs, etc.

I'd recommend Mick Farren's seminal 'The Black Leather Jacket' but I'm afraid people might think I was some sort of pervert...
 
 
Tryphena Absent
23:55 / 27.07.02
I thought about maybe a trend that keeps coming round like 'the peasant look' which apparently has links to economic recession or something. Very weird.
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
15:25 / 30.07.02
having problems finding it, but there is stuff on the kind of stuff that Ganesh's talking about, almost certain I read something on "t shirts and masculinity" years ago, looking at the whole queering angle of icons like marlon brando, james dean, jackson pollock...
 
 
Sax
13:17 / 31.07.02
I have a weighty tome at home about the role of fashion on shaping the 60s counter-culture - I'll dig it out after work and post the details, if that's any use.
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
21:41 / 31.07.02
Not sure about the peasant look per se, Janina - unless you count Marie Antoinette I don't think there was a great vogue for it until the late sixties - but it is certainly the case that, in the C20, skirt hems have gone down during periods of austerity (eg war, Depression) and up during periods of prosperity. At least, Desmond Morris said so (in... Manwatching, I think).
 
 
Mr Tricks
21:51 / 31.07.02
I remember flipping through a book called Sex & Fashion or something to that effect... Had LOTS of great bits in it... from buttons on Breast pockets to where the Valentine's heart really comes from...

My 2 cents
 
 
Tryphena Absent
22:30 / 02.08.02
I'd love to read it all, I'm currently stuck in to Russian constructivist fashion in the 1930's, Alexandra Exter made some lovely clothes.
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
16:16 / 04.08.02
ooh! ooh! if you're heading that way, you could possibly also look at Robert and Sonia Delaunay?
 
 
Tryphena Absent
22:03 / 04.08.02
I wasn't really planning to use the Delaunay's though I'd probably go for Sonia over Robert
 
 
Tryphena Absent
14:33 / 29.08.02
OK, in simple form, here's my dissertation proposal. It's not quite what I expected it to be but there you go, what is?

Gender-
Male (cut) vs. Female (colour, extravagant) clothing.
Ambiguity of the fashion model, curvy women in the 1980's to heroin chic in the 1990's... reflection of the music scene but also feminist movement.
Clubbing clothes and the fetish scene (a little about Gaultier also) and feminine becoming masculine in the growing aggression of clothes (Westwood).

Globalisation-
Labels and brand names: Vuitton, Chanel, Nike etc. (Naomi Klein naturally)
Rebellion: vintage and charity shops, counter culture.
Fashion Centres: NY, Paris, Milan and London- Anna Sui is faithful to New York whereas Alexander McQueen moved from London.

Cyclical fashion-
Relation to gender movement. Rustic and 1930's look, colour 'black is the new black', the little black dress.
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
16:04 / 30.08.02
How long is your dissertation expected to be, there's an awful lot in there. Not meaning to be discouraging, but each one of those topics would make an excellent thesis in itself. You might find that in trying to cover all three, which are linked but sound quite different in focus/possible methodology, you fall between stools. Just a thought.

Buuuut - off the top of my head:

Gender-
Male (cut) vs. Female (colour, extravagant) clothing.
Kit kat's probably better than me on this, or Haus depending on how far back historically are you going? you've got stuff like the Dandy where colour and display as well as cut are important. And late victorian dress where for men *and* women cut and fabric are far more important than extravagance. I'd say be very careful of generalisation on this. In C20 you could work this- if (tieing into the fetish thing) you want to look at youth cultures then Dick Hebdidge's Subcultures is old, but probably still invaluable. Also the Garber.


Ambiguity of the fashion model, curvy women in the 1980's to heroin chic in the 1990's... reflection of the music scene but also feminist movement.
For a simplistic but practically unique (as far as i know) look atrock music and gender, which examines image and presentation in interesting ways, check out The Sex Revolts: Gender, Rebellion and Rock 'n Roll - Simon Reynolds, Joy Press

Clubbing clothes and the fetish scene (a little about Gaultier also) and feminine becoming masculine in the growing aggression of clothes (Westwood).

AmericanFetish.net might be useful, the guy's thesis has a usefulo bibliog. on it.


In a hurry, but will chat to an ex-fashion student friend for refs on fashion cycles/fashion forecasting.... you might want to look around on the net for professional fashion sites, things like trend prediction etc...
 
 
Tryphena Absent
01:07 / 31.08.02
I'm going to place this so that it covers the present, the longest I intend to go back in detail is 30 years but I'd rather stick to the last 20. That's mostly to emphasise the facial ambiguity of models.

I intend to keep the work on male v. female clothing very tight. I'm going to restrict it to current high street store clothing but I probably will generalise. Pretty much because you can when you're looking at something with such wide coverage.

I'm proposing a lot because that means I won't get in to trouble by adding things in. I'll probably scrap cyclical fashion in the end. Thanks for the book it looks well worth paying attention to... I haven't checked out the site but I will a bit later.
 
  
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