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Travel Advice - North East USA

15:06 / 06.08.07

So I'm going to spend some time in the North Eastern portion of the US over 2 weeks in late September/early October, visiting some of my friends.

I'm going to be drifting between Cleveland, NYC and Washington DC.

What's the best way of getting around please? At he moment it looks like that amtrak 15 day pass for £150 looks pretty affordable and good. (I'd ask my friends but the concept of public transport seems to be foreign to them)

Can anybody give me some advice about getting around in this region, and perhaps what to see? How about music scenes? Places to see live music in those cities? Anything else of note?

Obivously I'm staying in those cities I mentioned, but what else? I'm thinking of Niagara Falls, Boston, Philledelphia, umm,

My Mom Thinks I'm Cool

16:11 / 06.08.07

the train is a good way to see stuff out the window and be comfortable. the bus or plane are often not so much. also along the East Coast you are more likely to have your train be on time - anywhere else in the US it's almost guaranteed to be late due to sharing tracks with the freight trains.

though for the sake of doing it at least once you may want to take the infamous Chinatown buses between NYC and boston/philly/DC. they are cheap and weird. be sure to show up early because they oversell seats.

as for live music in NYC I'd recommend a street called Ludlow on the Lower East Side - almost any night of the week there are 1-3 bars with cheap or free live shows all night (you may need to buy a beer per set or something.) and the beer is pretty cheap. just walk down the street close to Houston and look for chalkboards with playlists.

Niagara Falls is cool but I wouldn't book too many nights there - I saw both the US and Canadian sides as thoroughly as I wanted to in about 6 hours. It is good to switch sides though as you can do/see different things on each side, and make sure you take a boat tour because it's the best view of everything.

17:02 / 06.08.07

Just a sticky point for you...the North East is NY and above (maybe a chunk of PA). Below that is the East coast and the South East. DC is most certainly not in the North East.

New England is everything above and the east of NY state. Ohio is midwest state.
Oddly enough people get cranky about these sorts of things.

17:52 / 06.08.07

DC's actually south of the Mason-Dixon line -- so's Maryland, which is north of DC.

Is September too late for softshell crabs? I imagine it is....

17:58 / 06.08.07

Oh, to clarify, the Mason-Dixon line is one way of dividing the North from the South.

Maryland is the only Southern state that didn't join the Confederacy (and part of Virginia split off to form West Virginia). Had Maryland done so, DC would have been surrounded by the Confederacy and the Civil War would have progressed very differently.

21:05 / 06.08.07

As a NY/NJ native I'd say the Northeast includes New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, and Pennsylvania. Above that is New England (which includes Massachusetts). Below that is the South. West of that is the Midwest.

But Amtrak's Northeast Corridor line runs from Boston to DC. Agree that it's the best way to get around if you don't rent a car.

As for advice about things to do in the Northeast -- well, that's about the same as asking for advice about things to do in Britain. Almost an infinite range of possibilities, which will be quite different in New York, Boston, DC, Philly, and Cleveland (Cleveland?).

Quick picks:

Boston: Skip it and visit Cambridge instead. Check out the huge profusion of bookstores, record stores, museums, and shops that proliferate around MIT and Harvard. If you do Boston, get some clam chowder. (I'd suggest you go to an Irish bar, but an English accent won't go over well.)

DC: Visit the Smithsonian museums of your choice. See the big monuments -- the Washington Monument, the Capitol Building, the Lincoln Memorial, etc. Walk through Georgetown. Get Ethiopian food.

NY: Wander the East Village and Lower East Side. Visit the Met and MOMA. Check out Time Out New York and see a few bands. Go to the TKTS booth and get a half-price ticket to a Broadway show -- a matinee if you can. Get a slice of pizza from someplace with "Ray's" in its name.

Philly: Eat a cheesesteak. See the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. Visit the Franklin Institute and walk through the giant heart.

Cleveland (really?): Um . . . there's the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame.

00:05 / 07.08.07

not that it matters at all, but as a connecticut native, i've gotta say that new jersey and penn are definitely "mid-atlantic" states. new englanders view "north-east" as nearly synonymous with "new england", which includes connecticut, mass., vermont, rhode island, new hampshire, and maine. as xk mentioned, these silly demarcations are something that will definitely get the native's hackles up.

that out of the way, i'd recommend a stop in providence. it's a bit of an underdog compared to it's neighbor to the north (boston), but i think it's a bit more revealing of what new england's all about. if one spent half a day there, i'd recommend a stroll of benefit street (colonial architecture), the providence athenaeum (on benefit st., one of the oldest libraries in the US), swan point cemetary (including lovecraft's grave, sans lovecraft's corpse), the downtown canals, federal hill (excellent examples of italian-american food), and maybe catching a show in olneyville, which despite being past it's peak still can impress (see the lotsofnoise.com forums).

oh, and a chinatown bus from boston to new york is DEFINITELY a good idea.

00:06 / 07.08.07

also: in NY, check out the museum of natural history. way awesomer than you expect...

06:57 / 07.08.07

Thanks for all those replies, I'm going to get as much of all of that in as I can in the time I have there. Sounds good.

Yeah Cleveland, well it's a bit out of the way, but I promised a friend I'd go and visit. She knows a few punk bands so maybe I'll get to see some local music while I'm out there. And I'll try check out the R'n R Hall of fame too. Heh.

Apologies for the terminology, I was using the divisions Amtrak had used for that NE pass, since it covers the area I'm interested in. Thought it may be more widely accepted. I'm always surprised how, anything one state over from the coast is considered Midwest.

One more thing. NYC, where can I try some authentic chicken and waffles?

15:13 / 07.08.07

if you have friends in dc with a car, i'm sure you could talk them into taking you to gladys knight's chicken and waffle house, although i'm sure there's gotta be a soul food joint in nyc that serves it as well.

16:47 / 07.08.07

NYC, where can I try some authentic chicken and waffles?

Go to Amy Ruth's Homestyle Southern Cuisine, 113 W. 116th Street. Order the "Reverend Al Sharpton."

Gotta admit, though, NYC isn't actually big on chicken and waffles.

17:22 / 07.08.07

The Chinatown bus from DC to New York is cheap but it also doubles as a vehicle for running drugs. It isn't clean and it isn't safe but it is indeed cheap.

New England is gorgeous this time of year. If you have the time I would definitely recommend visiting the mountains and beaches in the New Hampshire/Vermont/Maine area of New England.

18:34 / 07.08.07

Vermont is indeed lovely. A bit out of the way of what you're describing, but gorgeous.

10:41 / 08.08.07

Gotta admit, though, NYC isn't actually big on chicken and waffles.

Really? How odd, I thought the current iteration of Chicken and Waffles as soul food all started in Harlem?

11:40 / 08.08.07

I did the Amtrak thing when I went from NY to Washington. The train broke down in mid-course, but they fixed it in less than 45 minutes, which was pretty awesome, considering they had to change to whole freaking engine. (I hear the bus is a lot cheaper, though)

also: in NY, check out the museum of natural history. way awesomer than you expect...

I second that. And I hear they are holding an exhibtion on mythological beasts (dragon and whatnot) now, which should be cool

12:12 / 08.08.07

Gotta admit, though, NYC isn't actually big on chicken and waffles.

Really? How odd, I thought the current iteration of Chicken and Waffles as soul food all started in Harlem?

It may have become popular here -- in Harlem in the Jazz age -- but, like most soul food, I'd guess it originated in the South.

As far as I can tell (as a white guy who has lived in the area most of my life and rarely goes to Harlem restaurants) it doesn't seem to have maintained its popularity in NYC.

But I may be wrong.

Look -- a Wikipedia entry!

Oh -- and I agree that the American Museum of Natural History (and the Hayden Planetarium, which is attached) rocks. Don't miss it.

09:18 / 09.08.07

Look -- a Wikipedia entry!

I'm familiar with that Wiki entry. I became quite interested in the concept of this food some years ago, and researched it a bit. On the net of course.

There is apparent evidence that the whole chicken and waffles thing was, at least, being eaten by the Pennsylvania Dutch in the 19th century. Waffles being of European origin, perhaps makes this somewhat believable.

Whatever the case, internet articles don't give you an idea where this is currently popular, so thanks for the realspace view.

Since Harlem is the apparent home of the current version of Chicken and Waffles I just assumed it would be popular in NYC, I imagined tons of stores of varying quality scattered all over the place serving this up. Interesting to note that it is not. Wherever I do end up, I'll be sure to track some down though.

12:10 / 09.08.07

Since Harlem is the apparent home of the current version of Chicken and Waffles I just assumed it would be popular in NYC, I imagined tons of stores of varying quality scattered all over the place serving this up.

Nope. NYC doesn't even have that many good barbecue or rib joints, amazingly enough. (Especially compared to any southern city.)

Pizza is probably biggest in New York. Then Chinese, and maybe Mexican. And bagels for breakfast, especially on a weekend (with cream cheese, lox, or various spreads).

13:40 / 09.08.07

Mm, I am looking forward to trying the pizza. Best from a street side vendor yes?

Do they still do hot dogs with multiple toppings? Or was that just an 80's thing?

I also want to try corn dogs. Mm.

The mexican food, is it proper mexican food? Like cuitlacoche/huitlacoche and chocolate mole's? Or is it more Tex/Cal Mex?

14:50 / 09.08.07

They have Mexican in New York?

If you want a New York meal, go to a Jewish deli, dagnabbit!

Bagels & nova, kosher pickle, a potato knish (with grainy mustard) with either a cold Dr. Brown's black cherry soda or an egg cream. Cheese blintzes. Smoked whitefish. If you're an out-and-out carnivore, pastrami on rye.

15:29 / 09.08.07

grant, you are making me hungry.

15:36 / 09.08.07

No street-side vendors for pizza in NYC. Lots of small pizzerias everywhere. Almost impossible to miss if you walk a few blocks in any direction.

Hot dogs with multiple toppings are available from street-side vendors. Go to a Sabrett's cart. Available in the business district and most touristy areas in Midtown.

Corn dogs, not so popular. Best chance for that is a New Jersey mall, but even then it's an iffy proposition.

The Mexican food is all over the map. Some proper, some pretty run-of-the-mill Tex/Mex. (Strangely, a lot of small takeout places are run by Chinese families.) Lately the San Francisco burrito (huge, wrapped in foil) has been gaining ground. Best place for that is Benny's Burritos.

As for Jewish deli, I'm a fan. Go to Katz's on the Lower East Side if you want pastrami (on rye, with mustard). They also have good hot dogs. Otherwise, you might want to try the Carnegie in Midtown. Sandwiches as large as your head. (DON'T order mayo or white bread or the waiter will make fun of you.)

If you want bagels, go to Ess-a-Bagel. Lox, whitefish, cream cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion on pumpernickel.

16:03 / 09.08.07

Mm, I am looking forward to trying the pizza. Best from a street side vendor yes?

Best is a difficult question for a New Yorker. There aren't hidden gems as far as pizza goes the way there are with bagels (Times Square Hot Bagels on W 44th is particularly good, for instance), so it's worth making a deliberate trip. The short list tends to be (in no particular order) John's (in Times Square and the West Village), Lombardi's (on Spring in what's left of Little Italy), Patsy's (in East Harlem), Grimaldi's (just off the Brooklyn Bridge), and DiFara (in Midwood). Patsy's and DiFara both sell slices, and Grimaldi's might (it's been a long time).

Hot dogs are incredibly random. There used to be a cart in the LES that sold kimchee dogs (which taste pretty much exactly like you'd expect), but hot dog carts overall seem to be on the wane; curbside shawarma and crepes are much more common from what I've seen recently.

16:31 / 09.08.07

There aren't hidden gems as far as pizza

One exception, I'd say: Two Boots. Cajun-style pizza with corn meal, spicy sauce, and lots of topping options. Several locations, but the most convenient one for a tourist is in the food court at Grand Central Terminal.

(I was trying to imagine where a street-side vendor would put the pizza oven . . .)

My Mom Thinks I'm Cool

16:47 / 09.08.07

Corn dogs, not so popular.

Nathan's, on Coney Island, home of the International Hotdog Eating Contest, is a good place to get corndogs or chilidogs. Not sure if it's really the high quality they claim, but they're not bad - and the atmosphere is, of course, very Coney Island. Come see it while it's still here, some developer is hoping to turn it all into expensive condo/hotel/mall things.

If you go for a hot dog cart, definitely try to find Kosher/All Beef/Hebrew National hotdogs. And I think all the food carts are more expensive if you're in or around Times Square.

In Chinatown look for small places selling dumplings, yummy and cheap.

Also try taking the ferry to Staten Island: it's free, it's kind of fun and laid back, and it's a decent view of the statue of liberty. There may also be fun things to do in Staten Island itself, but I've never found anyone who knew what they were. I hear they have the highest percentage of reported Bigfoot sightings in the area.

17:20 / 09.08.07

It just occurred to me - if you're driving (or whatevering) from DC to Cleveland, you'll probably pass close by Point Pleasant, West Virginia, which is not only pleasant in its own right, but also home of the Mothman. There's also some really pretty outdoorsy stuff south of there, around Hinton.

(Which is close to the secret emergency capital of the United States, which you may or may not get a kick out of visiting.)

19:19 / 09.08.07

One exception, I'd say: Two Boots. Cajun-style pizza with corn meal, spicy sauce, and lots of topping options. Several locations, but the most convenient one for a tourist is in the food court at Grand Central Terminal.

Two Boots is lovely, yes, and so is Grand Central. In fact, given the layover in New Haven when taking Amtrak from Boston to NYC, it's almost worth changing over to Metro North to come in through Grand Central rather than Penn (which is as hideous as its food court is dismal). But the much better unlikely food wonder in GCT is the Brother Jimmy's, which has the best NC-style pulled pork north of Wilson (slim competition, to be sure, but it is very good).

Two Boots has a proper restaurant in Park Slope which is pretty wonderful even if they can't make a chicken-fried steak worth a damn, and it's especially nice if you want to be close to Union Hall, which is absolutely the greatest bar/music venue on earth (at least since Rothko closed)--if your idea of greatest place on earth is "semi-hipsters playing bocce." Which it maybe should be.