|
|
Your wireless network needs to be secured if it isn’t already — even if you feel happy being generous with your bandwidth, there’s a possibility that someone might decide to use it for dubious or illegal activities, for which you could then be liable (it’d be difficult to prove that it was someone accessing your network without permission). In your router’s setup interface (which you probably access by typing a numerical IP address into a browser, unless you have an Apple AirPort), there’ll be a screen with ‘wireless security’ settings (possibly as a subset of a screen for general wireless settings).
You need to choose one of the following settings for encryption (scrambling the data so that people who don’t have the password key cannot read them if intercepted, and cannot use the network without permission), with the first being the most preferable and the last the least:
- (On recent routers) WPA2 (Wi-Fi Protected Access). This might be called WPA-AES or some variation thereon. This is the most secure encryption setting possible on most consumer routers, using nice secure encryption algorithms. It might not be compatible with some older devices.
- (On some routers) WPA/WPA2, or alternatively WPA-TKIP/AES. This is a hybrid mode which allows the computers which support the more secure WPA2 (above) to use that, and those which don’t to use the less secure WPA (below).
- (On almost all routers) WPA, also called WPA-TKIP. This setting is very compatible, and provides good enough security for most people. It uses a slightly less secure algorithm than WPA2. If even this isn’t available on your router, you may be able to upgrade its software to enable it. The same goes with most wireless cards in computers — check the company’s site for driver updates.
- (If your router doesn’t have this, it’s probably coal-fired) WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy). This setting is extremely compatible (this is sadly the one you have to use to connect a Nintendo DS), but not really much in the way of protection. It will certainly discourage casual bandwidth theft, but that’s about all; anyone determined to use your network/snoop on your data as it’s transferred will be able to. Use this setting only if you must. It comes in two varieties — 128/104 bit and 64/40 bit. Choose the 128/104 version if you can.
- None or ‘open’. Obviously, this will mean that your data fly through the air completely unscrambled and anyone can join. Not recommended if you’re feeling sane.
If with any of these you have a choice between RADIUS or PSK (Pre-Shared Key) varieties, pick the latter.
Whichever setting you use, it’s important to pick a secure key (password). All the usual password tips apply — not just one dictionary word, not easy to guess, etc. If you use WPA/WPA2, then I’d recommend using a Diceware key if you can (at least five words, preferably eight) — remember, it may seem long, but on most devices you’ll only have to enter the key once. On WEP, you’ll be limited to a certain number of characters, so pick something with a good mix of alphanumeric characters and punctuation.
To get the most secure settings possible, it’s important to have all the latest drivers and firmware for your wireless gear. Manufacturers’ sites should have what you need.
If anyone is having any trouble, feel free to PM me. |
|
|