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Montreal

 
  

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Fist Fun
09:29 / 12.02.04
I may be working in Montreal for a bit starting next week (Coming from the UK). Anyone know the place well? Any advice?

Where are good places to stay? Is Canadian French hugely different from proper French? Is it a fun place?
 
 
Papess
12:43 / 12.02.04
Well woohoo! Would be nice to have another 'lither haunting this town.

I live in Montreal and right now to be honest, it is cold. Well it is warming up...it was one degree above freezing yesterday! But we know many ways to stay warm here. Including the underground concourses that are connected to the Metro (public transportation) and indoor shopping, theatres and restaurants.

Having been from coast to coast in Canada myself, Montreal is the most European of Canada's cities. Very liberal in attitude and when the warm weather hits, there is no lack of parisian style cafes here. In July and August, there are several parades and festivals, including Pride Day, Jazz Festival and Comedy Festival. In summer the activity here makes up for the slumbering winters, although there is a Winter Festival as well that stars the famous La Bonheme (pardon my french, I believe that is the correct spelling). Also, there is fabulous skiing and snowboarding not too far from the city.

It is a bilingual city, but on the island of Montreal, there is usually little trouble finding english speaking service. The nightlife is exceptional, (although I don't get out much) and the arts are hugely supported and patronized, especially the theatrical arts. Both major and idependant films and theatre can be found in french and english. The people are relaxed and liberated as I mentioned before and it is certainly reflected in the lifestyle, which sports a lively, non-pretentious fetish scene, nightly drag shows and many live nude theatres.
 
 
Jack Fear
13:59 / 12.02.04
The non-resident's perspective:

I love Montreal. It's got that cosmpolitan, big-city vibe, but without that background undercurrent of anxiety that you get in NYC or London. Everybody seems to be having a good time, or least to not be seething with homicidal rage. It's a city where you can stumble down the sidewalk drunk without undue fear.

It's a walking city--fairly compact, like Boston: within the city itself you won't need a car to get around. I haven't used the Metro, but I understand it's terrific--clean and well-maintained.

Architecture a glorious patchwork of old and modern--again, like London, like Boston.

Take a walk down St. Catherine and you're sure to find something to do.

Quebecois French is to Parisian French roughly as Australian English is to BBC Received Pronunciation: there's a broad accent that derives from the Francophone population's agrarian roots and long isolation from the motherland. Oui sounds more like way, Cheval comes out zhwahl--that sort of thing. And there are some Canadian French regionalisms, many influenced by Anglophone culture--potato is potate, for instance, rather than the Parisian pomme de terre.

I did encounter a curious attitude among Francophone Quebecois, though: shop-clerks, waitresses, bank tellers, etc. would address me initially in French, and I would reply in kind (my French was pretty good, then)--and they would kind of roll their eyes and switch to English, even if (as was plain in several cases) my French was better than their English!

I was put off: there was a definite element of contempt--Oh, pliz, dew not torrrture me wiz your eempairfect attempts at maah lahnguahge. Spaire mee your seelly "voulez-vous," yew eegnorant peeg. Ah need no fayvors frem yew--dew not bozair.

Funny. Usually trying to speak the language of your host country gets you points for effort, at least--even if everybody there speaks passable working English. But the Quebecois relationship to language is a rocky one: they've been a linguistic (and in some ways, cultural) minority for so long that they recoil at any whiff of what they see as patronizing behavior--even if it's well-intentioned.

Yes, I'm making huge generalizations here. Just be prepared, and deploy you French judiciously.
 
 
Saint Keggers
14:02 / 12.02.04
Having lived in Montreal all my life (actually just across the bridge from it if you wanna get into specifics) there's nothing I'd like better than to tell you all about out fair city...except May beat me to it! Everything she said is true except its spelt Bonhomme and thats a Quebec City winter carnival character. Montreal is a fabulous place to be during the summmer months and a delightful place to stay away from during the winter. We also have the worlds oldest St-Patricks day Parade (oh yeah!)And May mustn leave out both the Beer festival and the Festival International de la Gastonomie (food fest)While in montreal you must try the smoked meat and the poutine.
Let us know when you get here.
 
 
Papess
14:46 / 12.02.04
...my French was better than their English!

Quite possibly your french was better than theirs as well! But, I think what you are percieveing is actually their inability to understand the english accent we speak with, especially a British english accent. I think their reaction just comes off as snooty because...well, because they are french. In some cases though, it is indeed arrogance, but in most cases, efforts to speak in french are met with appreciation.

Oh right! the Winter Festival is a Quebec City thang. Oh well...2 hours away if you are so inclined.

Wait...Beer Festival? Keggers, you must initiate me!

If you do come by Buk, (and if you want) we all could visit the Irish pub Keggers introduced me to, appropriately named Hurley's for a pint or two...If you like that sort of thing.
 
 
moriarty
15:26 / 12.02.04
I don't know how much more I have to add. I'm heading up to Montreal this weekend for Valentine's Day, and I can't think of a more romantic locale in all of North America. Interesting comic scene too, if you're into that sort of thing. If I could get a job in my field there, I would live in Montreal in a heartbeat.
 
 
gotham island fae
17:33 / 12.02.04
[Morosely returning from here.]

I imagine there's no chance of "responsible pothead/esoteric meanderer/talented performer" being classified as a "skilled worker". Is there?
 
 
Papess
17:52 / 12.02.04
imagine there's no chance of "responsible pothead/eosteric meanderer/talented performer" being classified as a "skilled worker". Is there?

This is Canada. Of course there is!
 
 
Saint Keggers
17:56 / 12.02.04
Hell, give it two weeks and you cold end up running the place!
 
 
gotham island fae
18:05 / 12.02.04
Please don't tease me.

seriously

I would immediately begin packing if there's a real chance I could attempt permanent residence. I've not completely given up on my 'homeland'. And I recognize that no matter where you go, life's trials are basically the same. But I've been knowing I need to live somewhere other than where I've been for the first thirty years of my life for about a year and a half, now. I'm as fickle as any fae, so I've talked up a lot of places, recently. (Still wanting to visit bmore, bk!) But the whole ex-patriate thing in the years to come sounds better each passing minute...
 
 
Papess
20:14 / 12.02.04
If you are that interested in Canada, we can talk privately for certain. You are one of my barbecrushes, ya know!

Seriously...no teasing.
 
 
ill tonic
02:03 / 13.02.04
Are rents still cheap?
 
 
Fist Fun
08:14 / 13.02.04
Kewl. I appreciate your input. I totally want to go now. I had no idea that there were any barbelith geeks there. After my four months in London it seems I am set for a tour of Barbelith locations around the world. Although I only ever made one Barbemeet in London and never did work my way through that list of restaurants.

One thing that suprised me, and shows my ignorance, is that the company I could be working for there absolutely needed a French speaker. I always assumed that everyone would be bilingual.

But after all that, I might be packed off to Paris to work instead. Ho hum. We'll see...
 
 
Fist Fun
15:22 / 16.02.04
Right flight is booked. Gonna be in Montreal for 5 weeks arriving this Saturday. Bye Bye blighty.
 
 
Fist Fun
23:18 / 24.03.04
Well coming to the end of my five weeks in cold, cold Montreal.Great place and you guys are lucky to live here. Thanks to May and Keggers for taking me out last night and letting me beat them at pool.

Top things about Montreal:

Rosalie - Best place I ate in Montreal. V expensive but worth it.

Other restaurant - Nonya, the golden boot

Best club - La Boom. Bar maids with attitude who demand tips. i'm British we don't tip just for giving me a drink.

Best Pub - Hurley's, McKibbins. Typical Brit go abroad and hit the Irish pubs.

Best sites - Biodome, Mont Tremblant.

Best shopping - Fauborg Centre on St Cath. Amazing vegan shop there.

Loved the whole North American city where people speak a weird, twisted version of French thing. Had a few awkward moments in meetings where I just had completely didn't understand the local lingo.

The people are amazingly friendly. Went out for a beer on my tod one night and within 20 minutes the locals were offering to take me out to their home town, meet the family and see the real Quebec.

So, yeah, if anyone is looking for a place to go Montreal is great.
 
 
wembley can change in 28 days
08:46 / 25.03.04
Is cafe Santropol still around? They had the most delicious sandwiches in the world, and would serve you a cup of espresso with strawberries on the side, all for less than half the Starbucks price.

Note of contention: I can't believe the "is Quebecois french different from proper french" slipped under so many peoples' radar. Quebecois is what it is, and it's not "wrong"; the French spoken in France is also regional. You'd be better off saying "Parisian French". Excusez-moi, I just get irritated when people say there is a "proper" version of every language.

Glad you liked that fine city - I never lived there, but every visit was memorable.
 
 
beelzebub jones
01:31 / 26.03.04
i've been to montreal many times and loved it. i am staying in toronto for an unlimited spell and love it. it's colder than an english summer, but canadians are a smart, funny, quirky mixed bag of a melting pot of folk who are friendly even when they're being snooty, speaking english or french. and if you're coming from england you'll be comforted by the queen's picture on the money, the best of which is the canadian nickel which has the queen on one side and a beaver on the other. trop drole.
 
 
foot long subbacultcha
15:36 / 26.09.05
Glad I found this thread!

I'm going to be spending five nights there in a couple of weeks. Anyone got any further nuggets to add with regards to how much I'll get to enjoy it there?

I'll be going on my own - I've got the flight sorted, just need to look for a hostel or something. I know very little about the place - I've spent loads of time in Toronto and the locals there kept telling me I need to go to Montreal. My french is pretty poor but I don't expect that to be much of a problem.
 
 
Papess
14:17 / 27.09.05
Hasn't one of the gang here in Montreal responded to this yet? When will you be here and how long will you stay Subbaculture?
 
 
The Return Of Rothkoid
00:43 / 28.09.05
I can't say I liked Montreal, but that could do with the nine hours during the wintry night I had to spend in the fucking airport, thanks to Canada 3000's dysfunctional planes.
 
 
foot long subbacultcha
10:53 / 28.09.05
I'll arrive on teh 11th and leave on the Sunday - so that gives me 5 nights. I've booked a bed at the HI-Montreal. Now I just need to show up and SEE things!
 
 
grant
13:34 / 28.09.05
What is Montreal like?

Montreal is like that second glass of straight vodka when you're alone at the club and you know you can't afford it and you're beginning to suspect you're being stood up, but you don't dare leave because that person might just be on the way.

Montreal is like that neighbor with the accent and the immaculate hedges who occasionally dines outside with friends by torchlight, but never invites you -- you hear the faint clink of silver on porcelain, you smell the faint aroma of white wine and garlic, you see a warm, flickering glow through that square-topped topiary border.

Montreal is like five days in an unfamiliar house, sleeping under a feather blanket and waking up to the smell of cold cuts and yeast.

Montreal is like a cousin you hear about but never see because she's too busy leading a glamorous life in the fashion industry whenever the rest of her family turn up for holiday visits.

Montreal is like a flawless mahogany walking stick with a polished brass head engraved with someone else's monogram, leaning in the foyer next to a pair of well-worn and mud-spattered galoshes.

Montreal is like a fox stole with attached head, a jagged white crack shining across one glass eye.
 
 
Pooky Is Just My Pornstar Name
17:21 / 13.10.05
Subbacultcha,

You should be here now, so if you're reading this, you may want to check out the following:

-Mount Royal (maybe not today though cause it's drizzling rain).

-St. Catherine Street (Montreal's main street in the downtown core) has loads of shops and restaurants to check out. You're bound to find something of interest.

-Crescent Street which is the core of downtown nightclub scene.

-St.Laurent Blvd (aka The Main) is another street that's a must see. Plenty of stores and restaurants here too. However, these stores tend to be boutiques. This doesn't necessarily translate into being more expensive though. Sure, there's plenty of trendy stores with the latest brand name designer clothes, but there's also small, trippy hippy, vintage clothing stores as well. The Main is pretty eclectic - you can have an ultra hip designer boutique and just a few doors away, a run-down restaurant and/or strip bar/club.

-St. Denis street for more cafés, restaurants, and bars.

-For cultural events, there's the The 34th Festival du Nouveau Cinéma of Montreal happening right now. And of course, there's always the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. There's also La Ronde, an amusement park, which also has a Halloween theme going on at the moment. There's the Botancial Gardens, which has the Magic of Lanterns (a display of gorgeous chinese and japanese lanterns hung in the Asian gardens) and the Great Pumpkin Ball (600 decorated pumpkins) on show. There's also the Biodome (basically a small zoo within the city)

-Food/Restaurants: You MUST go to Schwartz's Deli on the Main (3895 St.Laurent Blvd) and try some of their world famous smoked meat sandwhiches. The food is fabulous, the service is lousy (the servers tend to be grouchy old men). For amazing strawberry cheesecake, go to Dunn's restaurant, on the corner (more or less) of St. Catherine and Metcalfe in downtown. For Indian food, I recommend the Curry House on Bishop street (also downtown). And of course, you must try poutine (french fries smothered in gravy and topped with cheese curds from Quebec farms - sounds odd, but it's surprisingly tasty though it is a heart attack on plate), and Montreal style bagels. In general, due to the european and diverse multi-ethnic restaurants and cultures here, Montreal's restaurants tend to be a cut above other cities. It's relatively easy to find good food at decent prices. Small cafés/restaurants can provide really tasty yet economical meals. I bought lunch from a café today - had a bacon, tomato, swiss cheese panini sandwhich and a large italian wedding soup. Both were delicious and lunch cost about eight bucks and change.
 
 
Bard: One-Man Humaton Hoedown
20:23 / 13.10.05
You should all bring your tourism to Toronto.

...he said, knowing that those words would come back to haunt him when he went to Montreal in April.

Seriously, my memories of Montreal are not good ones. Mainly involving lousy hotels, rude waiters, and that general sort of thing.

The basilica was nice, though.

...though nothing compares to the Parisian waiters who will deliberatly refuse to understand you unless your French is impeccable, or you just break down and admit that you only speak a bit and were just trying to be polite.
 
 
Rage
09:14 / 14.10.05
I'm coming out too. Where's all the whack ass shit?
 
 
Saint Keggers
22:41 / 14.10.05
Rage, you gots ta be more specicific than "whack ass shit".

We have varying degrees of ass wackness.
 
 
Rage
23:53 / 14.10.05
Bizarre alternative culture, of course.
 
 
Saint Keggers
00:07 / 15.10.05
Like the Quakers? We don't tolerate them 'round here!
 
 
Rage
00:13 / 15.10.05
You are such a Quaker. Show me to your secret hideout at once.
 
 
Bard: One-Man Humaton Hoedown
01:42 / 15.10.05
There's an entire town of Jehovah's Witnesses near my family's cottage. The only building in town with a sign out front is the Kingdom Hall.

It's called like "Mnethom" or "Mnecthon" or something like that. Whatever its called, it sounds like the name of a Mythos god.
 
 
foot long subbacultcha
18:39 / 15.10.05
Strix - sorry I didn't call yesterday. Only just got your message. I left a voicemail with you so at the very least you got to hear my voice!

I'm having a great time here - the eating is glorious (love the smoked meat), and I hit Mont Royale today despite the rain. It was worth it for the unique sloping view of the cityscape, even through the drizzle.

Been out the last four nights in a row and each evening has been splendid. Have even recognised people I've met in the street and in bars.

There's a bitter-sweetness to travelling, though. It's sad to meet people, connect with them, and never see them again.

One more night to go.

Keggers, Strix - I'll call again in a while just in case you are available tonight.
 
 
Papess
19:34 / 15.10.05
I hope you are coming to Hurley's tonight, Subba...or should I call you Foot Long?. Later we all can go to Foufounes for more beer.
 
 
Ticker
13:41 / 30.10.08
*bump*

Teh spouse would like us to move our household to Montreal because, screw it, we want to enjoy civilization while it lasts and while we are still able to shake it shake it. Being Americans we're a bit clueless about how to go about living in another country as Americans and then possibly expating ourselves if everyone works out together in a fuzzy dirty lint ball sort of way.

I'm armed with the following:

http://www.cic.gc.ca/

...and the info that the catssons need shiny rabies vaccines documents to be welcome.


I have a decent IT resume to get in on and the spouse may count as a skilled worker as well. Honestly I'd rather get a gig as a Permaculture Designer as I've just got newly minted certification as such but I'm not sure about the demand.

So. Will any kind Montreal 'Lither let us come visit and drag us about their lovely city and edjumacate us about how to do this thing?

We're thinking of visiting soon & moving next Fall (2009).

Also honestly, should we start taking French lessons here or should we wait to learn once we move?
 
 
Eek! A Freek!
13:59 / 30.10.08
Ah XK... The lure of the north...
Thought you were gonna tough it out Stateside and promote change from within...
I spoke with my wife this morning and propose opening our borders to any and all Americans should McCain win. Doctors get privelige of first crack because were a bit short and ALL Americans must check their guns at the border.
 
 
Ticker
14:18 / 30.10.08
The spouse is a crazed gamer dork who wants a city of gamers and believe me it's a very niche game he plays. He just returned from a Montreal tournament and announced there are so many people playing the particular niche game that they have *two play groups*. TWO. Plus an actual live art scene with cutie pies. Rumored to have affordable housing no less.

We've been looking for a city to move to for a few years now. I thought it would be in the US but our requirements are a bit difficult. Aikido, V:tES, cold climate, english speaking, beautiful, old architecture, active art/music scene, affordable, liberal, on the water, public transport system, and still able to visit the family with reasonable effort. Plus all the occult requirements, Permaculture, and probably other stuff I'm not recalling atm.

It's not so much about bailing on the US as it is finding a city to lurv. I lived in Boston for so many years and believe me it is not affordable and the scene is not as robust as it could be.
 
  

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