BARBELITH underground
 

Subcultural engagement for the 21st Century...
Barbelith is a new kind of community (find out more)...
You can login or register.


How do I print a comic book?

 
 
Jack Denfeld
04:04 / 07.11.03
I've wanted to write a comic for awhile now, but can never seem to hook up with an artist. The few artists I have talked to eventually try to worm their way in as co-writers, and I just want someone to follow a script, like a professional. So I'll just draw it myself.

I thought it would be cool to print out like a 100 books that looked just like the comics you get at the shops, standard size and all. Maybe a color cover and then black and white interior. So how do I do this?

Why do professionals draw on that giant paper, and do I need to? How much does it cost to print this stuff?
 
 
Mike-O
05:31 / 07.11.03
Jack, I'd be interested in an answer as well... tho I suppose there are a number of different way fo getting something like this done... finding the name of a professional printer wouldn't be very hard (do a web search), tho I bet you that a job like this could be handled by a non-industrial printing shop, like Kinko's or something, for a smaller project, but still with excellent quality.
 
 
Jack Denfeld
07:28 / 07.11.03
Yeah, I just thought it'd be really cool if one of your writing samples was an actual comic. Like you could send them in with Queries, or it might be more enticing for an editor at a con to read an actual in your hand comic book instead of 23 pages of double-spaced script.
 
 
sleazenation
08:39 / 07.11.03
A few years ago Dave Sim published the "Cerebus Guide to Self-publishing" - You may disagree with the man absolutely, but much of the advice contained therin is invaluable.
 
 
dlotemp
11:11 / 07.11.03
My first recommendation is that you check with some small press publishers. Scott McCullar from Shooting Star Comics in the States is a nice guy and he has been extremely helpful with a comic publishing project of which I am one contributor. The Shooting Star Comics has a website with links. You could also try PMing Cameron Stewart or Ethan Van Sciever who are fellow Lithers. Both are great guys. But that may be too advanced for you since the point of that project was to print thousands of comics and sell them. If you want to do a limited run for a portfolio, then some of the demands will be different.

I would recommend that you use art composed on the standard size Bristol Board - 11"x14", I believe - because it will show that you know how to work within the standards of the business. I'm unfamiliar with digtial arts issues so I can't comment on those standards. The Bristol Board provides as nice solid background and the material has minimum bleeding of ink, so ink lines don't lose their crispness. You'll see the difference if you try a sharpie on a regular paper and then on Bristol Board sometime. You'll want to use the larger page because it affords a great amount of room to work on, allowing better design for depth and layout than drawing really tiny on 8.5" x 11."

I've put together some mini-comics in the past and found that shrinking the original Boards by 83% on a standard copier provides a nice version that fills with page while leaving a border around the edges. You may want to experiment with different %s but, since you'll want to stick to 8.5" x 11" pages, you won't stray far from 83%.

A standard comic page looks different from 8.5" x 11" though so you'll need to talk to a printer who can give you the proper %, paper & stiching costs, and how they want to recieve the pages.
 
 
Ray Fawkes
13:18 / 07.11.03
I second the reference to Dave Sim's "Cerebus' Guide to Self Publishing" - it has a lot of information about how to put together and print a book, as well as why you might want to. A good piece for anybody who wants to get into the business to read, not just self-publishers.

As far as publishing your own book, this is what you'll need to do:

- Size your artwork so that it fits on or reduces to comic-book dimensions. The standard size of DC comics, for example, is 6 5/8" x 10 1/4". Artists working for DC work on 11x17 paper and reduce the image by around 64% (I think) to fit it on the page.

- Call up a few printers and get quotes on printing your book. They'll walk you through choosing the kind of paper you want, etc. I can tell you now that you're going to have to go with digital output if you want only 100 copies - most offset printers won't do a job with less than 1000 copies. Plus, 100 copies is going to be pretty expensive, on a per-copy basis - so you're not going to be making any money if you sell them. Anyway, compare the quotes and go with the printer that you think will give you the most quality for the least cost.

- Print your book!

That's it. It's that easy.

One note: Artists often want input on what goes on a page because writers often give them scripted panels that are either impossible to draw, or just a pain in the ass. In the first case, it's good to be a little lenient...especially if you want to work in the industry - where editors and artists will both be changing your script anyway. Unless you're Alan Moore.
 
 
sleazenation
13:23 / 07.11.03
Isn't anopther reason for drawing big for reduction that it allows artists to achieve a level of detail that would be difficult to accoumplish at a 1:1 scale?
 
 
moriarty
16:50 / 07.11.03
I also recommend the Cerebus book. If you can't find it, Sim may still have some copies available. He offered me a free copy a few years back when I thought I had lost mine. There are parts I don't agree with, but overall it's a great book.

At a convention I saw him at, I mentioned how I had been submitting work to the local newspaper. He said that it's really important to see your work in print, since it rarely looks like you'd imagine it. When you see the difference between the original and the printed version, even with just a photocopy, you can tinker with your art to make it work.

This is especially important in lettering. If you're doing your own, whether by hand or on the computer, take at least a few days to study other perople's lettering and work on it and figure out proper sizing. I've emphasized this in every other post about Jenny and Everywhere, and contributors still hand in sloppy lettering.

Good for you in drawing it yourself. That's great. Just remember that if you don't have the chops, your writing samples might be hurt by bad art. The reason I rarely agree to draw a script written by someone else is because the writer very rarely has a visual-centric way of writing. Too many words crammed into small panels, no flow in the arrangement, lack of proper pacing, etc. That, and the artist tends to take at least 10 times the amount of time and effort drawing a comic, so they may want some kind of say or investment, and they may get bored if it's not something they dig personally. If you expect someone to be "professional", shut up and spend weeks of their free time to draw your script, then you better damn well pay them professionally.

Like Ray mentioned, the more copies of something you print, the less it costs per copy. You may want to go the mini-comic/ashcan route if it's just to hand out samples. The field on the 11x17 inch board that you should work in is 10x15 inches. This can be larger or smaller, but the proportions remain the same. The height is 50% larger then the width, or the width is 2/3rds the height. Art Spiegelman drew Maus on typewriting paper, Jack Kirby and most of the old-timers drew on HUGE pieces of three-ply bristol. Once again, like the lettering, do at least a few test pages to see how your lines look shrunk down. Like Ray said, standard comic size is different in dimension from an 8 1/2x11, though if you're thinking of making a mini-comic instead it doesn't matter much.

By the way, what are you inking with?

Lastly, listen to Ray. He's walked the walk.
 
 
Mr Tricks
23:30 / 07.11.03
There's some Info that may be useful here...

Art wise:
when you "reduse" art work the line work is "crisper" as mistakes tend to be less noticable... HOWEVER. Most digitial scanners are about 8.5"x11" or a little bigger... This means if you want artwork that's around 111"x17" in size, scanned, you'll need it "drum scanned" which is COSTLY!!!

You might want to consider artwork at 8.5"x11" printed at a "DIGEST" size... which will also save on paper costs.

Just 2 cents . . . more in that other thred.
 
 
Mr Tricks
23:33 / 07.11.03
forgot the link didn't I
 
 
Ray Fawkes
04:04 / 08.11.03
You don't need to drum scan 11x17 artwork. You can either reduce the artwork via photocopier and then scan it (assuming you have access to a good quality photocopier) or you can scan each page in halves and put it back together in photoshop. Personally, I prefer the former - it's just less of a pain in the ass.
 
 
Jack Denfeld
05:27 / 08.11.03
You know I've actually thought about paying an artist. Just so they would feel like they were doing a job and not get so pushy with altering the story. I could probably offer someone over at Millarworld like a hundred bucks or so. But then I thought why not just draw it myself. I mean it's not like I've got a deadline, so I can just edit and edit until it's at least passable. I can use G.I. Joes to get poses down and stuff. I'm not much of an artist at all but I have faith I can at least be good enough that the art isn't distracting.

What am I gonna ink it with? I don't know, a Bic, or just a regular old pen?
 
 
Sax
06:05 / 10.11.03
This might be some use. Then again, it might not.
 
 
rizla mission
09:03 / 10.11.03
Some ulta-lofi comics advise..

Re the giant paper;

I tried doing that once, on the basis that that was how proper comics were done, and therefore it must lead to good results. But it was absolutely stupid and looked terrible - I think that unless yr. a talented professional artist person, 1:1 is just the only way that makes any sense.

Re inking;

I find that a variety of regular black ballpoint pens work perfectly. Cheaper and more reliable than 'special' artists pens, although I'm sure many would disagree.
 
 
rizla mission
09:07 / 10.11.03
Oh, and here's a link to Jessica Abel's excellent DIY comics guide.
 
 
Suedey! SHOT FOR MEAT!
20:51 / 11.11.03
That Jessica Abel thing is great, I'd forgotten all about it.

I just wanted to chime in, because this thread is pretty handy. I'm hoping to print a 20-ish comic sometime in the future, and the hints are helping.

However, I've been drawing on - approx - 7 x 10". It's roughly the size of a comic page. Not taking in to account borders, mind. So with borders, a little more. My pages are like, 19 x 26.5 cm (centimeters guys! come on!). IS this alright? They seem to reduce to the right size... all these numbers confuse the hell out of me though. My philosophy is draw it, and worry about it later. Obviously, I've never actually printed anything myself.

I know fly/nelson got a Jenny comic printed up. How'd that work out? Pricewise/sizewise?
 
 
Suedey! SHOT FOR MEAT!
17:38 / 02.12.03
We need more talk of this!
 
 
gergsnickle
18:18 / 02.12.03
I also had the urge to create a comic book a few years ago, but was hampered by a weakness in the drawing area. Realizing I would never hook up with an artist who wanted to spend their time realizing my vision I toyed with the idea of cutting and pasting photos, or tracing photos or something along those lines. This was unrealistic as it was nearly impossible to find images to match what I was thinking of, and after growing tired of thumbing through stock photo books, decided there was no getting around drawing the thing myself.

As a non-artist the full pages I produced were ridiculously sloppy. What I did then was set the document up in Quark - choosing a regular comics sized page, and then laying out picture boxes where I wanted the panels to be.

Using regular 8.5 x 11 paper I painstakingly pencilled the image until I was satisfied, before inking over it with a fine tipped regular writing pen (this is the one stage where spending on a real drawing pen might have helped) and then scanning it into Photoshop. Getting the pages clean is important so you can use the magic wand tool to quickly color large solid areas. The rest I did by using the brush tools to fill in areas, finally shadowing using the burn and dodge tools. Then I imported the picture into the Quark document. Word balloons I created quickly in Illustrator and I used regular fonts for lettering. This process was slow, taking roughly a month a page (I know, that's REALLY slow) but it was the only way, as a non-artist I could produce something that didn't look drawn by an (untalented) eighth grader. I got 10 pages in before I satisifed my desire to create this comic.

This might sound really complex, and certainly requires a lot of computer software, but as someone who works in printing I can say you will probably have to produce a digital file yourself at some point anyway to keep from paying through the nose to have someone do it for you at the printer's.
 
  
Add Your Reply