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To live in Miami Beach (?)

 
 
El Gato Was Right: the t-shirt
21:26 / 06.06.03
Anyone ever live in Miami Beach? I need some advice.

I've got the opportunity to live in a condo in sunny and chic South Beach, with an ocean view and a balcony, for a very low rent. I'd have to leave my friends, my girlfriend of several months, and reporting job at a medium-sized newspaper in Connecticut.

Miami, to me, is the place where I spent a few weeks every summer in my late teens, lonely weeks where everyone seemed to have been having a good time around me. I flirted with South Beach's party life over a couple vacations, but glitz and glamour have never been my thing. On the bright side, the town's vapid sensibilities always provoked me to spew some eloquently-written bile.

So. I do like to move around every few years. The warm weather is a draw. The condo means waking up to the sunrise, falling alseep to the sound of the waves.

Do you think it's worth it?
 
 
grant
01:06 / 07.06.03
I was born in Miami Beach and lived there for a couple years (1996-2000 or so).

It's a crazy place, but no crazier than the rest of South Florida. I used to love hanging out on Lincoln Road and "watching the parade." Supermodels and refugees. Club kids and filthy rich. On a Friday night, a guarantee of hearing at least three languages in passing conversations, with a likelihood of five (Portuguese, German, French, Spanish, English).

Lately, there've been a couple stories about weird crimes in South Beach, so I think the clubs have gotten less glitzy than they once were. I liked it, though.

Why is the rent so low?
Where *exactly* is the condo? (If the street is higher than, say 20th or so, it ain't really South Beach. Gianni Versace lived on 11th. Andrew Cunanan stayed at a hotel on 79th, then squatted in a houseboat at around 45th.)
It can also be an expensive town, although it's possible to live cheaply once you get the hang of it.

Summers in Florida resorts are always lonely affairs - that's the dead season. Joe's Stone Crab (where the CIA plotted, among other things, the Bay of Pigs invasion, rubbing elbows with the mob) closes down until September or so. That's one Miami Beach landmark.

I've also heard from people that it can be hard to "break in" and make friends in South Florida. I've never really found that to be true. Well, no more true than anywhere else - but I'm an introvert. There is, however, a really large transient population. People on their way somewhere else, people eager to get off the peninsula and hit New York or somewhere. The fools.

So, Connecticut. How do stand that whole snow business?
 
 
El Gato Was Right: the t-shirt
20:35 / 07.06.03
Thanks for the reply, Grant.

The condo, on Ocean Drive at about Fifth Street (hell yeah, I know), belonged to my grandmother before she died a few years ago. My mom inherited it and rented it out to a sushi chef until recently. Now, she's saying I can live there at about what it costs her to keep it.

Into my late teens, I'd spend a few weeks there every winter. Just me and my grandparents. It's easy to may friends now, but not when I was a teenager, so I've come to associate Miami Beach with a kind of outsider feeling.

Seems like it would be an idyllic getaway from the winters up here. I'm originally from the northeast, but I've lived down south where its practically summer year-round. Can't stand the cold weather, and this last one was truly a fucker.

Grant, what did you do, and where did you go for fun down there? Where have you moved to since?
 
 
Rage
00:54 / 08.06.03
It's pretty cool there, though there's a lot of cocaine and strip joints (not the female owned ones) and clubs and cocaine and strip joints and clubs and fights and cocaine and strip joints and...

Lincoln Square used to be cool until all the...

I wouldn't do it if you're looking to start a band, but if you want a nice place to chill and relax...

Lots of surfers.

Fun fun! But kind of avant guarded.
 
 
El Gato Was Right: the t-shirt
03:05 / 08.06.03
Meanwhile, I've been catatonic all day pondering this thing. My girlfriend, who's understandably upset that I'm considering it, just stormed out of my apartment in tears.
 
 
grant
17:51 / 10.06.03
What did I do for fun?

Watch the parade, mostly. Get fresh smoothies from the Liquid Sunshine lady at the Lincoln Road Farmer's Market on Sundays. Eat at the Van Dyke. Wander around the artists' studios.

I was a Lincoln Road guy. I'd only venture onto Ocean when friends were in town or when one of the big festivals was on. I liked the beach behind the Eden Roc (you'd have to drive to get there). Movies at the Byron Carlisle & at the art house Co-op theater on Lincoln (although they built that fancy multiplex at the end of Lincoln right when I left).

I very rarely went to the clubs on Washington - generally only for work, or with my dad when he was working. (celebrity stalking -- not that much fun.)

I moved north when the girl I was living with (whose father owned the apartment in which we lived) moved to Dallas. The main thing I miss up here in West Palm Beach is the walkingness. You could walk to some great places in South Beach, but you have to drive almost everywhere up here. Of course, parking is a damn sight easier up here. (about 1.5 hrs north)

Ocean and fifth means you'd have to wade through the clubbing crowds of margarita drinkers to get to Lincoln.
Oooo, but you'd be close to the Sandwicherie, which rocks.

Ocean is like Ft. Lauderdale - lotsa neon, bright clothes, bars. The chi-chi "club" clubs are mostly on Washington. Lincoln was more restaurants/cafes/galleries. A lot of pedestrians, window shoppers.

The order of events for nightlife would be a coffee and light meal on Lincoln, some barhopping down Ocean (which is *always* a traffic jam on weekend nights, just from people cruising the beach), then dancing till noon on Washington. I never actually did all that, but had friends who did.
 
 
grant
17:54 / 10.06.03
Oh, and you won't run out of things to do in greater Miami. I think most of the artsy stuff that was happening in SoBe has been displaced out to the Designer District (?) just over the Tuttle Causeway, between downtown and Overtown, just about.
 
 
El Gato Was Right: the t-shirt
13:37 / 11.06.03
I've been reading up on Miami and one item that caught my eye suggested that the better (more interesting, riskier) clubs are in greater Miami. The gist of the peice was that in SoBe, it's go mainstream or go bankrupt. So if I want funk, soul or ska for instance, as opposed to whatever's "hot," I'd have to do some digging. I wouldn't mind.

Brawl with the girlfriend notwithstanding, I'm seriously warming up to the idea of moving to Miami. (Really, no pun intended.)

Grant, you're a journalist, right? Ever do anything for the alternative weeklies in Dade and or Broward/Palm Beach? That's where I'm thinking I would like ot go, if I moved.
 
 
grant
15:14 / 11.06.03
I have done a few things for Closer, a magazine which covers the tri-county area. (http://www.closermagazine.com). I'm not sure what their current situation is - they're published by Rodney Mayo, a cool guy who owns a lot of clubs & nightspots in West Palm & South Beach. It's glossy and features lots of ads for Mayo's clubs. I'm not sure what they're doing for text nowadays, though - last mass email I got from them was looking for more advertisers. (I also never finished the last story the editor asked me to do - the perils of not handing Grant a deadline, especially with a vagueish concept to start with.)

The big hitter is the Miami New Times. They pay well, and are part of that same family that publishes the free newsprint weeklies in every city in America. Houston Press, etc. There's a Broward version of New Times. There's also CityLink, a PB County/Broward county altnewsweekly modeled on the New Times.
 
 
El Gato Was Right: the t-shirt
20:19 / 11.06.03
Miss Lincoln Road?

http://chariff.com/SouthBeachTV.cfm
 
 
grant
20:27 / 11.06.03
That's pretty cool. Zooming out is weird. If it's facing WAMI (the TV station, I think) that means it's over the best Mexican place in Miami Beach. It was once called Cielito Lindo, but may have changed names. What a weird thing.
 
 
Squirmelia
14:56 / 19.08.03
I'm not contemplating living in Miami Beach, but my company might be sending me out to Miami Lakes for a week or two, so I expect I'll take a trip to Miami Beach. Any suggestions of interesting things to do around there when I'm not working?
 
 
Tamayyurt
15:15 / 19.08.03
I do live in Miami, not on the beach but like 15 min. away. What are you into? what do you do for fun? Maybe I can point out a few places if I get a better understanding of your interests. One thing though, I suggest you brush up on your spanish.
 
 
Tamayyurt
15:18 / 19.08.03
And I agree with grant, Lincoln Rd is much cooler than the mess that is Ocean Dr. I'm always there. Mostly to go to the movies and get smoothies.
 
 
El Gato Was Right: the t-shirt
00:48 / 20.08.03
So, I went to Miami a few weeks ago.

I used this to devise a little pub crawl:
http://www.timeout.com/miami/bars.xml?ar=1&cg=1

My favorite bar by far was Mac's Club Deuce. People were a little rough, a little real, and a little not-so-real: it seemed to be a hang-out for pre-op trans-sexuals. Just don't smoke cloves; the bartender gave me hell. On the other hand, she gave me one of her smokes and a buy-back in sympathy.
 
 
Lilly Nowhere Late
05:30 / 20.08.03
Just been reading this thread a little voyeuristic like and couldn`t stop the idea from popping into my head:
Any Miami-ites, who would be interested in a writing project about
a beautiful young boy who grew up dealing and taking drugs and ripping off
would be johns in Miami/Ft.Lauderdale area, blah,blah,blah, Should
pm me and let me know your interested.
Its a third of a book I need to finish and it must come from a voice who knows what its like.
 
 
grant
13:14 / 20.08.03
Deuce! I remember that place. For a while, it was the ONLY place you could play pool on South Beach.

I know what it's like to grow up in South Florida, but the drug dealing and the ripping off johns thing is something I'm not experienced in. I know a little about the social work system, though.
 
 
aus
04:45 / 22.08.03
Why can't the girlfriend go with you?
 
 
El Gato Was Right: the t-shirt
05:39 / 22.08.03
Ah, Aus, that would have been a tough one to answer when I made that first post some weeks ago. I've since faced facts.

The feelings just weren't there on my part. Miami may have seemed an attractive and clean way out of the relationship. I never invited her with me, and that precipitated -- if not foreshadowed -- our break up a couple weeks ago. The breakup, by the way, happened in the regular old messy way.

And, perhaps uncoincidentally, I've sort of lost interest in Miami somewhat.
 
  
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