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Darlings, the colour has come back into your lives

 
 
Kit-Cat Club
16:00 / 02.01.03
Sorry about the title - couldn't resist - moderators change it if you feel the need...

Anyway, as I've said in the Books forum, I'm reading a book called Bright Earth: the Invention of Colour by Philip Ball; it's a history of pigments and colour technology, and it's ace. But I was brought up rather short by the following passage:

Yves Klein invites us to engage with the beauty of raw colour. This goes against our training. What is brightly coloured? Children's toys, the Land of Oz. And so colour threatens us with regression, with infantilism. Cultural theorist Julia Kristeva claims that 'the chromatic experience constitues a menace to the "self"... Colour is the shattering of unity.' What else is coloured? Vulgar things, vulgar people. Colour speaks of heightened emotions, even linguistically, and of eroticism. Pliny is not alone in xenophobically attributing strong colour to a kind of decadent Orientalism. Le Corbusier asserted that colour was 'suited to simple races, peasants, and savages'. Needless to say, he found it in abundance in his 'journey to the East', and wa repelled: 'What shimmering silks, what fancy, glittering marbles, what opulent bronzes and golds... Let's have done with it... It is tiem to crusade for whiteness and Diogenes' - which is to say, for cool reason over all this unseemly passion.
The nineteenth-century art theorist Charles Blanc (what's in a name?) insisted that 'design must maintain its preponderance over colour. Otherwise painting speeds to its ruin: it will fall through colour just as mankind fell through Eve.' Here, then, is another reason to distrust colour: it is feminine. Contemporary artist David Batchelor argues that a fear of colour - chromophobia - pervades Western culture. 'Man,' said Yves Klein, 'is exiled far from his coloured soul.'


(I should make it clear that Ball himself is firmly on the side of colour - just in case that's not clear from that passage)

Now there's a lot in that, and I was hoping that you lovely lot would be able to help me unpack it a little. I have a few bones to pick with it on historical grounds - what about bright Victorian aniline dyes? What about vibrant colour in Tudor costume? What about peacocky male costume in practically every era until the nineteenth century? Also I'm not sure that the implication that non-Western cultures value colour over design is accurate (surely in many cases colour and design go together anyway?).

What do you think?
 
 
illmatic
16:36 / 02.01.03
I think I heard an interview with this bloke last year when the book came out. From what I remember he was very convincing, though he may well be historically inaccurate. All I have to draw on really is some ill-formed assumptions and generalisations (rather like most of my posts), but think for instance about the connatations of whiteness in design - minimalist, darlink. So much more sophisticated. Think about the brightness of childrens toys. I suppose he covers the Elgin Marbes as well? - originally multi-hued and stipped down to the bare white but some colonialist who's name I'm too lazy to look up. Broadly the idea seems to hold water to me, though like a lot of these grand arguemnts, there are probably a lot of specific examples where it falls down.
 
 
Tryphena Absent
23:13 / 02.01.03
Certainly in the twentieth century colour became flamboyant. Gabrielle Chanel was a great influence over all of this because she introduced beige flannel as outer-wear and was the first designer/couturier to do so. Male clothing only took on its lack of flamboyance and colour when clothes began to lean towards utility, the industrial revolution redressed menswear. If you separate this passage from the history of clothing you get something particularly accurate because colour is feminine, the cheaper the clothes the less focused on design and the more focused on colour they become. Compare a top from New Look to a top from a designer range and you'll notice it as soon as you put it on. Warehouse attempts to gain class by making the clothes minimalistic, greys and whites dominate every single stock that they bring in, mostly because the more minimal the clothes are the more likely you are to notice good cut and good design. Philip Ball could almost be confusing the present and the past, the passage appears mixed up because it states Kristeva's postion referring to the present attitude towards colour but then descends in to a discussion of the nineteenth century and that, culturally, is quite a different thing. Men's clothes are gaining the colour that they lost in the nineteenth century.

I'd also like to add that historically design tended to be valued over colour in many countries, Japan is a perfect example, a kimono was designed to show your social standing while colour was introduced right across the board and thus the design was always primary.
 
 
Tryphena Absent
01:13 / 03.01.03
Oh and I love the thread title, please don't change it!
 
 
gingerbop
14:32 / 04.01.03
PAINT THE WORLD LIKE A RAINBOW!
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
17:39 / 08.01.03
Nice idea, but a little impractical...

I suppose he covers the Elgin Marbles as well? - originally multi-hued and stripped down to the bare white but some colonialist who's name I'm too lazy to look up.

Yeah, he does mention that - apparently the Greeks weren't too troubled about subtlety and painted faces red, hair blue, etc. I seem to recall that you can still see traces of the paint on some of the Elgin marbles. Interesting to note that mediaeval churches, which we tend to think of as being austere and plain, would have been painted to the nines - thinking especially of Durham here, the patterning on those whopping pillars in the nave would all have been painted - as well as chocker with stained glass and painted monuments and shrines, &c. You can sometimes visit small country churches and see the paintings emerging from underneath the eighteenth-century whitewash - what Henry VIII and the Puritans didn't manage, yer ruddy-cheeked country parson probably did.

Actually, perhaps Protestantism is at the root of a dislike of gaudy colour in the West? Full of holes, I know, but perhaps there's something in it.

And then, yes, the association of sober colours with sophistication (and the Coco Chanel thing as well) - though the predominance of design over colour doesn't always denote sophistication - does anyone else remember those quilt covers from the eighties which every boy of my acquaintance used to have? Grey, black and red zig-zags? Nasty. But the supposed vulgarity of bright colours - is this in any way supported by the phenomenon of the gaudy red-carpet frock? (You know - Versace, Matthew Williamson, Julien Macdonald - things worn to get press photos). Fashion seems to love colour but not to want to actually wear it, though perhaps there's been a change in that over the last five years or so, I'm not sure (I can't wear bright colours - they wash me out).

Sometimes I think there's something execrably naff about the idea of 'good taste' though, in colour as in other things.

Philip Ball could almost be confusing the present and the past, the passage appears mixed up because it states Kristeva's postion referring to the present attitude towards colour but then descends in to a discussion of the nineteenth century and that, culturally, is quite a different thing.

Yeah, I think that's my basic problem with that passage - it's all over the shop chronologically, and tries to conflate Pliny's ideas with Kristeva's. However. What do people think of Kristeva's actual ideas? Does a variety of colours make us uncomfortable because it shatters unity (I would like to know *what* unity - has anyone else read Kristeva?) - in relation to this I've just remembered a books of booksellers' anecdotes which relates how lots of people like to arrange their books by colour - perhaps it is more restful for the eye? This would fit in I suppose with the slightly jarring experience you get with artists like Frank Stella and Bridget Riley... I'm veering all over the shop now, aren't I?
 
 
Goodness Gracious Meme
18:26 / 08.01.03
ooh, interesting. Will back to this when I've dug out some Kristeva, but as a quick stab at answering your question, Kit-Kat, regarding 'what unity', it's worth remembering that Kristeva writes from a post-Lacanian pyschoanalytic POV.

References to unity, and especially a shattering of this are likely to refer to the pyschological moments of recognising the self as distinct from the other, and the neccessary trauma of this process. Kristeva's primarily known for her work on the abject (in especially Powers of Horror), abjection being the process by which we re-experience this shattering, abject cultural objects being those which produce this re-encounter with the Mirror Stage. This process is seen as significant because (in part, will come back with books!) it throws into question all sorts of the neat divisions we make, for example between in the inside/outside of the body, between us/them, subjectivity/objectivity etc...

Hope this makes sense. will have a think about the colour/taste thing.

Oh and this:

"Also I'm not sure that the implication that non-Western cultures value colour over design is accurate"

i think is spot on, I think there's a rather crude oversimplifying in references to "shimmering silks". To suggest, as this passage at least seems to that all non-Western aesthetics(that neat opposition) are colour-led is tosh. From my limited experience of Pre and post columbian aesthetics, this doesn't hold up, nor does it ring true for what I know of Bengali design, specifically, and Indian design more generally.
 
 
Saveloy
10:01 / 09.01.03
[possibly irrelevant asides]
Fair-enough point on corporate attempts to own colour, leading to annoying gripe about universal standards in colour reproduction:
Viridian

Found this handy colour wheel site while looking up colour names. Scroll down through the colour strips for some tasty colour action. This explanation (from near the bottom of the page) reads like a poem:

"Top-tone is adding White to the color.
Under-tone is adding clear.
Mass-tone is thick out of the tube.
Transparent is clear like colored glass.
Translucent is floating colloidal compounds of colored elements.
Milk is translucent.
Opaque is dense and light blocking, like a rock.
YYYY = As Yellow as you can get,
YYMM = Yellow and Magenta, as Red as you can get."

[/possibly irrelevant asides]
 
 
telyn
18:58 / 09.01.03
Perhaps dye has something to do with colour ethics. Natural bright dyes are unstable and harder to produce, so maintaining clothing with bright colours would have been an expensive business (eg Royalty wore purple clothing as a sign of status).

It's only recently that we have been able to mass produce clothing with relatively stable bright colours. The first synthetic dye was created 150 years ago, and was the first cheap dye.
 
 
Tryphena Absent
09:59 / 10.01.03
But there's a certain amount of evidence that indicates that people were quite steadfast about re-dying their clothes. Of course I couldn't tell you where it was from and I believe that it relates more to Asian countries anyway.
 
 
invisible_al
10:56 / 10.01.03
Hmmm I'd also wonder about how deep his historical evidence is, Along with the Roman and Greek Statues being awash with colour did he mention the whole Purple being a royal colour, with the Romans and possibly before that. The history of colour is also the history of trade in many ways, pigments following the trade routes and what might be a peasant colour in say in Constantinople would be the colour of the wealthy merchants in London.
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
12:08 / 10.01.03
Harmony - yeah, there's a really good book called Mauve by, I think, Simon Garfield, which is about the invention of the first fast aniline dye (er, mauve, funnily enough - followed by Alizarin crimson etc.) Recommend it for a light read...

Al - well, I will cop to the fact that this is a pretty Eurocentric book, and it does concentrate primarily on pigments as they were used in art (manuscript illumination, fresco, tempera, oil etc.) But yes, he does mention trade as being important - e.g. Renaissance painters got their best pigments such as ultramarine, realgar etc. from Venice because it was the centre of trade with the Ottoman empire (if it was the Ottoman empire at that stage, I can't remember...). However, he does also talk about how a lot of the pigments produced by chemical reactions were produced as a result of alchemical experiments, which is very interesting. Also about the physical properties of pigments - i.e., the smaller the grind, the lighter the colour, because the more light refracts through it (I think - might have to reread that part using my brain this time).

He doesn't really talk about Tyrian purple per se, but he does make it clear that with pigments such as that and vermilion, the intensive labour needed to extract the pigment from the raw material was what made them expensive, though undoubtedly trade bumped prices up. I mean - I very much doubt that the citizens of Tyre went around dressed entirely in Tyrian purple garments, even though it was manufactured there...
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
22:21 / 14.01.03
Erm, I'm still reading it, and I've just got to the chapter where he spends five pages talking about Tyrian purple.... duh... And actually he has this to say about the cost of producing the pigment:

'Each shellfish yielded just a drop of teh dye, which was why the stuff was so fiendishly precious, and why a significant proportion of the Phoenician population was employed in its manufacture. One ounce of the dye required the sacrifice of around 250,000 shellfish...'
 
 
Kit-Cat Club
22:47 / 14.01.03
OK, I turned the corner of this page down because I wanted to post about it - hopefully in the course of typing it out I will remember why.

The Baroque period represents a strange episode in the story of the creation and use of colour in art. The painters of the late sixteenth and the seventeenth centuries did not value novelty so much as sobriety and control in their colour choices. By the dawn of the seventeenth century the advocacy of Giorgio Vasari and the scholars of the Italian academies had largely secured the superiority of disegno over colore. The influence of this idea soon spread to France, and a muted palette and dark chiaroscuro became the predominant style of European art. When we remember the Frenchmen Nicolas Poussin (1594-1665) and Claude Lorrain (1600-82), or the Dutch portraitists Frans Hals (1580?-1666) and van Dyck, it is not for the exuberance of their colours. Rembrandt... painted deep shadows and golden light, under which all things turn to warm browns that he made beautiful. But in lesser hands this brownness became the hue of conventionality, of an art made to appease the connoisseurs and conservative patrons rather than to excite the senses.

Right, I think what struck me about this was the way it fits in with some of the dreariness of going round stately homes and their art collections in England (anyone who's been to Petworth will know exactly what I mean - room after room full of nasty brown paintings - histories, still lifes, landscapes - all brown), and how I remembered reading about the way in which dealers used to con their customers into buying naff 'Old Masters' which were actually pictures by Gianni Ferrera, Hans Schmidt or whoever with a lot of brown in them and a lot of brown varnish on them... and how old paintings, or paintings which looked old, were the only ones which would sell, so that the market for new works in England was effectively stifled until Hogarth showed up. Um. Basically, about how important that was in the development of academic or conventional taste throughout the eighteenth century, and how we can blame the eighteenth century for all modern ills, and... so on...

(I get over-excited about the eighteenth century)
 
  
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